Oil Filler Cap mounting bolt broke (Super M)

Our Phone System is Down!

Please use the Contact us Form

We are working to resolve the issue ASAP! Thanks for your patience!

Buckskin

New User
My Farmall Super M Oil filler cap mounting bolt broke down inside the hole. That bolt goes into part of the casting, which I found out is not very thick. There is also a metal with holes in it down in there to filter out large objects I guess. Anyhow, I was tightening the cap and the whole bolt and that piece of cast iron came out. So, now there is no way to attach the filler cap.

I have a feeling this has happened to other people considering how thin that part of the casting is. Changing that whole piece is not an option. It's like a fairly large part of the engine and looks like a lot of work to change, not to mention finding the part and the cost. At the same time I can't leave it like this or rain water will get in the engine.

I could possibly ask a local welder to weld something but that seems very difficult to weld in that hole and plus it's cast iron, which is hard to weld anyhow, not to mention the flammable oil. Plus I'd have to drive the tractor about 6 miles to a welder. On top of that, I could see welding "spray" would get into the engine. So, it looks like welding is not an option, and neighter is JB Weld because everything is coated with oil.

Unless someone has another idea, all I can think of is finding another method to seal the filler hole. The only idea I can think of would be those expandable rubber plugs like they use on boats, where you tighten a wingnut and the rubber expands. But can I find one to fit this size hole? Plus, will the rubber hold up under the heat of the engine?

Anyone have any ideas or suggestions? Anyone had this problem? I do need to seal it against weather because the tractor sits outside. I guess that's why I broke it, I always tightened it very tight to keep out water.

Thanks
Buckskin
 

Personally I would take some alcohol or some kind of solvent and clean all the oil off of everything and give it a shot of JB weld or epoxy. worse case you may have to re do it, but there are some real tough epoxies, some you can even put threads in
 
Yup, ditto on the glue method. If you can get the stud to hold at all it should be fine. And don't tighten it so much next time. It's not going to fall up. Otherwise alnost anything would work. One way would be to weld a rim on the cap that would extend down into the hole.
 
my H done the same thing ..i was able to take some all thread and two nuts and two lock washers and put 1 nut&washer under what was left of the casting witch broke in half across the hole threaded in and put the other nut and washer on and thightend up it's holding up so far then just spin on that cap till finger thight
good luck!
 
Been their and done that. After repeatedly fighting with it for several years. I tried jb weld,welding, brazing etc. all would work for a little while. I finally gave up and tore the front end down and replaces the cover. It took me most of a Saturday and was easier that I thought. If I had known I would have replaced it right away. I had the cover given to me by a fellow enthusiest so cost was not an issue.
 
(quoted from post at 11:51:44 07/30/10) Been their and done that. After repeatedly fighting with it for several years. I tried jb weld,welding, brazing etc. all would work for a little while. I finally gave up and tore the front end down and replaces the cover. It took me most of a Saturday and was easier that I thought. If I had known I would have replaced it right away. I had the cover given to me by a fellow enthusiest so cost was not an issue.

I agree!! Fix it right the first time and it will be good for another 60 years.
 
I would use a wall anchor bolt (Moly-Bolt) that is setup with two ears that fold back against the shank. ( think it is 5/16 course threads) Put a fender washer (large diameter with hole that fits the bolt) and a nut on the bolt shank to assure it will not drop into the crankcase.
When it is pushed through the hole it expands with spring pressure to push the ears out sideways.

I would then tighten the nut and fender washer so it holds against the casting.

After tightening, I would put an additional nut on the bolt to keep it from backing off.

Then I would bend the bolt to assure it was centered in the fill hole, put on the cap (Thumb tight is all it ever needs) and cut off the excess shank. A little filing to smooth and there you are! Jim
 
Why not just fix it right and be done with it?

On the ones I have repaired the stud was not that tight in the threads after they break. If you can't get it to move with a pick or small punch just stuff the hole with rags to catch any chips and drill it out. With a left handed bit they usually come out before you get drilled through them. If you don't come up with a new stud you can use a piece of threaded rod with a nut to hold the screen in place.
 
Sorry Owen, His post details how a chunk of the casting has broken out. Replacing the front cover is really the true fix. But he needs the tractor. Good idea if it were just the bolt broken. Jim
 
A plastic mayonnaise jar with the bottom cut out could be attached to the filler casting with a hose clamp--if there's enough casting to get ahold of---can't remember how much sticks up without looking. Lid can be taken off to add oil.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top