Janicholson

Anonymous-0 · Jul 26, 2010

About a month ago we had an indepth conversation about the electrical problems I was having with my 1948 Cub. If you will remember EVERYTHING is new: Mag., Mag switch, wiring, 6V VR, gen.,3 position light switch, new battery. Wiring is correct and gen polarized to VR, would not charge. Was told on here to check all grounding areas. There is metal to metal on mounting bracket from water pipe to gen. and metal to metal were gen and VR mount together.Replaced original Ammeter with a new one from OEM (American Made) checked all wiring and re-polarized, started her up and I finally got a charge reading on the Ammeter of about 6 to 7 amps, turned on my lights and she dropped to about 2 amps., this was at about 2/3 throttle. Shut the tractor off and started it back up and guess what, NO CHARGE!!!! Turned the lights on and it showed about an 8 amp discharge. What do you think? Thanks in advance.

Dave H (MI) · Jul 26, 2010

I'm not Jim...not in that category and never will be. But I cannot help wonder if you have turned the tractor on and taken a VOM meter and tried to isolate where the problem is? Portable ammeter might be even better. Start with the genny and see if there is charge at the source and then keep working thru the wiring to see where the charge is dropped. If you just step back and stare at it you will never diagnose it and it ABSOLUTELY is there to be diagnosed. I have been thru this myself. New does not equal working. When you run your diagnostic treat every length of wire and every connection as a new component to be tested.

Anonymous-0 · Jul 26, 2010

Okay. The problem is, as I'm sure you are aware, is running the tractor and getting to the generator and voltage reg. at the same time. How did you do this? I suppose you had to fashion some type of fuel tank since the factory tank/hood must be removed to access what needs to be tested.

Dave H (MI) · Jul 26, 2010

Oh absolutely!!! You can use either an old lawnmower fuel tank (CLEAN IT!) or, in my case, I have a piece of schedule 40 PVC with a cap permanently on one end. The cap has a hole drilled in it and a nipple tapped into the hole with some gasket sealer to keep it from leaking. A rubber gasline and (IMPORTANT) an in-line fuel filter capable of allowing gravity feed (Carquest or an outboard motor filter) are all that is needed after that. I hang it like an IV bottle from the steering column. Put a cap on the top if you are going to test drive unless you like gas on your clothes. Tractor will run great with this setup and you can do all the diagnosing you need. HTH Dave

Anonymous-0 · Jul 26, 2010

Okay, thanks.

Janicholson · Jul 26, 2010

I will suggest that you first start the tractor, run it at 3/4 throttle, then use a jumper to ground the Field terminal at the gen. This will start it charging. (or not) if it charges only when shorted to ground, it is the VR (either it is not grounded (you said it was super)or it is not good even though new).
If it stays charging after removing the jump to ground, the third brush might need to be moved closer to the fixed brush to charge higher output. Try these things then get back. Jim

d. coleman · Jul 26, 2010

if it charged while running, then quiet after shutting the tractor off, id look at the switch that controls generator on/off funtion. just my oppion. good luck, d.coleman

Anonymous-0 · Jul 26, 2010

Okay, thanks. I'll let you know what happens. May not be able to work on it until the weekend though.

Janicholson - CUB problems

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