Valve Lengths in a Super A

I ordered valves to replace the valves in a 1951 Super A. The valves I received are longer than the ones I have in the head by about an 8th of an inch. My question is, how much tolerance in valve length can the assembly allow? Am I safe to use the valves I received?
 
Is there a part number on the old valves? If you look under "Marketplace" to the upper left of your screen and select "Engine Kits" you will see they ask for this part number.

You could install the new valves in the head with the springs and retainers. Also if you have the new pistons and sleeves installed in the block you could set the head on the block on top of the head gasket. Then install several head bolts or nuts and just snug them so you don't crush the head gasket.

Then adjust the valves to .017" cold then hand crank the engine one complete revolution to see
if all the valves clear the pistons. If they clear I would torque the head down then recheck the valve clearance and rotate the engine one more revolution by hand. Hal
 
El Toro,

Thanks for your reply. I purchased the complete kit from Yesterdays tractors. I also doublechecked the part numbers from CASEIH.com. What is throwing me is that the ones I received are an eith longer than the ones in the head.

Will the tappets adjust that much?

Thanks,
Sam
 
If you feel something solid like a piston may be hitting a valve I would pull the head. You don't want to damage your engine. If the valve spring retainer groove is far enough down on the valve stem your local auto machine shop could probably grind the valve stems to the same length as the old valves. Hal
PS: This was done on the flat head Ford engines so you could get enough clearance since you had no adjustment. I had an old Viking garden tractor and no adjustment on the valves you had to grind the stems and keep checking the clearance.
 
Grinding the valves on either end wont help in this instance. The extra length is actually in the stem. According to caseih, the valves I ordered and received match the serial number to the engine. They however do not match the valves that came out of the engine. My only concern is valve seating pressure at higher RPM. I am assuming that other people are rebuilding engines with the same valves and springs. I just hope there are not other parts that might contribute to unforseen issues.

I will check things out well before starting... Thanks for your advice.
 

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