Just finished reassembling my pump yesterday and when I took the window off to make sure the timing marks were lined up I noticed the new weight retainer I had to put in has NO timing mark on it.

The engine was static timed when I took the pump off and I know for sure that the new weight retainer was put onto the distibutor shaft with the hash marks lined up. My concern is whether I should take the pump back apart and line the new weight retainer up with the old one and make a mark on the new one at the same spot as the old or just put it on the engine as it is timed allready. I can look into the pump drive end and see the hash on the distributor shaft and lay the old weight retainer on the end and get the pump that the shaft"s drive notch is not 180 degrees out this way. I am just afraid that when it is put on the enigne the slotted hole"s in the flange will allow to much in error to get it to start.

Hoping this makes enough sense to get an educated opinion better than my own. My gut feeling is to tear it apart again and make the mark, but if it"s not neccasary I"d rather not.

WELL, pump shops have a means of measuring and marking them but I never ran into one that was not marked. I am sure you can get it running but you will be kind of guesssing about what the actual timing is. That being said, lots of guys vary the timing somewhat to suit them selves anyway. One thing I have seen a lot of over the years is that when the automatic advance isn't working properly, guys will adjust static timing until engine runs smooth at high rpm . What this does is over advance timeing under a load. This pump has what is called a load advance. It is fully retarded at shut off and cranking speed, and then fully advances two marks at pump at all idle speeds, low idle or high idle. As it comes under a load it retards to one mark advance at 40 to 60 percent full load and fully retards at full load. This makes for more desireable combustion in a pre cup engine with roosa master pump as they are inlet metered and the timing keeps getting earlier as you increase the fuel charge between the pumping plungers. Now all that explanation may not be necessary but is just to get what I am trying to say about timing it. What I would do, you need the plastic window on pump to observe advance when engine is running. Start it up, let it warm up for a while, then observe the timing mark on cam, it should be moved down two marks from static. If not, you need to adjust the govenor guide stud in until it does, then running at part throttle, quickly rev engine to full speed while watching timing mark, it should retard about one mark, adjust guide stud in or out until you obtain this. If engine runs smooth with no sputtering you have hit static timing very close. If it sputters around,you will need to advance static timing. Do not turn pump while engine is running as this can cause pump to sieze and ,WELL BREAK YOUR ARM ALSO) If engine sounds kind of harsh when you accelerate, retard timing some. You may not want to go through all this but like I said, that is what I would do. Normally we use a dynamometer to adjust load advance properly. Lot of pump shops don't get it right either ,they don't have the fuel you are using and that can effect adjustment. Remember the tv show, soap, confused now, well you won't be when you get it running and sounding good.

"WELL, pump shops have a means of measuring and marking them but I never ran into one that was not marked."

I think you MEAN to say "all new ones come unmarked and are marked by the tech when on the pump stand".

Sort of a "spill timing" procedure.

No, I meant any ones I replaced came marked.

Casered,

With the pump removed from engine,attach
air line to #1 port ,this will push the plungers
out to max position.that is beginning injection.
mark with ink pen,remove retainer and etch or
grind the new mark. Don't etch it thru the
window as you don't want the particles in the
pump.

george