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Dougct

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I had some trouble with my M starting,it was getting slower and harder to turn.finally I had nothing.So i pulled the starter button apart and found this,burnt and broke.Its only 5years old and seems too be made real cheap.When I put in the new one it turned like it should,its a 6v also.
a18975.jpg
 
The outside of electrical components is a great place for hanging a disguise. Nice finish, great color match, the feel of quality that reflects so well the salesmanship of the seller.
______with garbage inside_____ Jim
 
Ever notice the sign in the parts store: "ABSOLUTELY NO RETURNS ON ELECTRICAL PARTS" They are guaranteed until they hand you the box. Even under ideal circumstances, electrical parts can fail at any time without warning. I once installed a contactor that cost the customer well over $100 and the #@%!@% thing failed before I could get back to the shop and make out the bill.
 
Why do you think they went to solenoids on later tractors?

It's because those starter buttons were never the right tool for the job. They have ALWAYS been a problem, right from the get-go.

The problem is, you can't push the starter button fast enough to make contact without a spark jumping across the gap. Eventually, the sparks burn the contacts, and the switch stops working.

If you got 5 years of regular use out of a starter switch, then you've done well.
 
(quoted from post at 07:45:31 07/19/10) Why do you think they went to solenoids on later tractors?

It's because those starter buttons were never the right tool for the job. They have ALWAYS been a problem, right from the get-go.

The problem is, you can't push the starter button fast enough to make contact without a spark jumping across the gap. Eventually, the sparks burn the contacts, and the switch stops working.

If you got 5 years of regular use out of a starter switch, then you've done well.
Click to expand...

I have an M as well with what looks like a BRAND new switch. My switch likes to stick and spin the heck out of my starter, I may buy a new one. If its anything like a contactor, once the bronze wears off then the steel can weld itself together especially when you're talking about 100 amps or so...
 
(quoted from post at 05:45:31 07/19/10) Why do you think they went to solenoids on later tractors?

It's because those starter buttons were never the right tool for the job. They have ALWAYS been a problem, right from the get-go.

The problem is, you can't push the starter button fast enough to make contact without a spark jumping across the gap. Eventually, the sparks burn the contacts, and the switch stops working.

If you got 5 years of regular use out of a starter switch, then you've done well.
Click to expand...

I've got a 1950 H with what appears to be the original starter button. I've owned this tractor for 12 years, it sees regular use because it is a working tractor, and the starter button works just fine. I've never had a speck of trouble with it.
 
(quoted from post at 08:45:31 07/19/10) Why do you think they went to solenoids on later tractors?

It's because those starter buttons were never the right tool for the job. They have ALWAYS been a problem, right from the get-go.

The problem is, you can't push the starter button fast enough to make contact without a spark jumping across the gap. Eventually, the sparks burn the contacts, and the switch stops working.

If you got 5 years of regular use out of a starter switch, then you've done well.
Click to expand...

The switch in the picture failed because the insulators failed on the button. Notice the ends where the electrical contact is made look fine but the center has been overheated. It may be that the original cause was to small of conductor around the hole but my guess is that it failed because of a short to the center pin.
 
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