w4 stuck engine

Hi all , just inherited a 1952 w4 that my uncle bought new and was stored inside since the 70's .

It's in perfect shape , except the engine is stuck
In the past I have tried ATF , diesel fuel, penetrating oil, even essentialube, and nothing worked.

The valves are loose , any good idea's guys ?

You could try heating some marvel mystery oil and putting it in the cylinders hot. I had the best luck with soaking 'em in pb blaster (for DAYS!). Worse case you'll have to disassmble it and tap on the pistons with a block of wood and a hammer. The idea is to just get the pistons to work back and forth a little at a time. Not try and drive 'em out the bottom. Provided its the pistons.

I have never tried this, but I read where someone took the head off and poured, as I recall, diesel fuel or maybe it was kerosene in the cylinders, lit the fuel and let it burn which heated up the pistons and cylinders to break loose the frozen rings.

Since it was stored inside it is probably stuck from consendation. Before pulling the head drain the oil and put the plug back in, fill the cylinders full till it runs out of the spark plug hole. For better prying remove the starter and try turning the flywheel with a big bar both directions.Check the plug and oil pan and see which cylinders had drained out.Another way to pry is to raise rear wheel off ground and rock it when ever you walk by. ATF and alcohol mixture works good.
caseman-d

Try ATF and Acetone mixture in each cylinder. Stick a crank on it after about a day of soaking and pull up on the crank.

If nothing helps to free the engine I would pull the head and oil pan as use kerosene or diesel that's been suggested. Only heat one cylinder at at a time. Remove the rod cap and use a piece of 2X2 oak and a hammer and try to drive out the piston putting the oak against the rod. Don't do this near any building or have anything flammable near the engine that can catch fire. Hal

Being the type of person that i am if it had not come loose the first day the head would have been off and the pan layen on the ground already . More then likely ya got two stuck with two almost at the top and two at the bottom of the stroke and you will not get much help from tryen to turn the crank . SOOOOoooooo if ya want to try and save as much as you can i myself would take a cylinder hone to the rusted sleeves and give it a light hone job to get the surface rust off the walls then clean up as well as you can Then take some ZEP penetrating fluid if you can find it or if not then i guess ya can use PB blasters then take a good piece of oak and a small hammer like 4-10 lbs range and give them a couple good solid hits and see if it will move . Learned the hard was that getting a pry bar on a flywheel tooh makes for some interesting word when ya bust a couple teeth off it Then ya get to lean how to split a tractor to REPLACE WHAT YA broke . The way i do it will give ya a heads up on what the inside looks like and then you can decide what is needed to make it all well , do i just need a set of rings and some clean up or do i need to sleeve her and rebuild her , well since i have the head off already i might just as well do a valve job and be done with that too. When it is all done and she fires for the first time and it runs like the day she was new ya forget about all the hard work ya put into it and if well taken care of you can pass it on to the kids .

Being the type of person that i am if it had not come loose the first day the head would have been off and the pan layen on the ground already . More then likely ya got two stuck with two almost at the top and two at the bottom of the stroke and you will not get much help from tryen to turn the crank . SOOOOoooooo if ya want to try and save as much as you can i myself would take a cylinder hone to the rusted sleeves and give it a light hone job to get the surface rust off the walls then clean up as well as you can Then take some ZEP penetrating fluid if you can find it or if not then i guess ya can use PB blasters then take a good piece of oak and a small hammer like 4-10 lbs range and give them a couple good solid hits and see if it will move . Learned the hard was that getting a pry bar on a flywheel tooh makes for some interesting word when ya bust a couple teeth off it Then ya get to lean how to split a tractor to REPLACE WHAT YA broke . The way i do it will give ya a heads up on what the inside looks like and then you can decide what is needed to make it all well , do i just need a set of rings and some clean up or do i need to sleeve her and rebuild her , well since i have the head off already i might just as well do a valve job and be done with that too. When it is all done and she fires for the first time and it runs like the day she was new ya forget about all the hard work ya put into it and if well taken care of you can pass it on to the kids .

black, This old trick will work when most won't and you are going to tear the engine down anyway.
1-Remove all tin work, fuel tank- store away from tractor,
2-Remove Head, Pan, Oil pump, Remove & # all Rod caps.
3-Roll tractor outside, remove all flammables from immediate area.
4- one piston at a time try to remove the piston from the cleanest sleeve by tapping them up. If one or two move get them out that is great if not then.........
5- the piston with the most volume, fill with Diesel, add a splash of gas, set it on fire. Get a cup of coffee or a cold drink and be at ease while it burns itself out, Then drive it out from the bottom up.
6- repeat on the piston with the next most volume and so on, and on!
As the volume gets smaller so does the burn time then a 2nd, or 3rd, or 4th or 5th application may be needed,
This method will allow you to save the pistons and probably the sleeves it they are not pitted.
At least you can have the option to save what you can, by not destroying everything.
I will bet that since that tractor has been in the barn for over 25 yrs, there was a problem with it that needed attention and just wasn't gotten around too. Either he got another tractor to do this ones work or just never got around to fixing it. Hope this helps!
Later,
John A.

Try Kroil from Kano Industries. Do a Google search.

Well, I have to thank all you guys for the help. Late last night I filled the cylinders with a little Essentialude that I had on hand, and today I managed to turn it over real slow. So,the w4 is a survivor and my 88 year old uncle will be happy to drive her again . She was stored because he bought a 434 and then a Kabota 4x4. Essentialube is available at Napa Auto for approx $15.00 a quart.

This is my 3rd tractor that I bought in 3 months Olie Supper 88 diesel , Allis WC , INT. W4,

Today I looked at an M but not sure if it's Super ? some one said if the starter has 3 bolts it is , but this one has 2 bolts . The casting # on right side is 60011 -- have to look it up.

I'm almost tractor broke and divorced L.O.L.

I used the ATF/Acetone mixture on my recently acquired Farmall M. It had been sitting for at least 10 years. I poured the mixture down the cylinders (through the spark plug holes) and let it sit for about 2 weeks. When I wasn"t able to turn it after that, I drained and pulled the oil pan and sprayed the solution up into the engine, crank and cylinders. Turned over the next day. Thanks FarmerBob