Bought a farmall M last year and been running fine, this weekend it was hard to start so used the the choke and now it is leaking gas from the bottom of the carb like a faucet. Took it apart and the float was cock-eyed so straightened it but no luck. Float does not appear to be stuck but it still leaks as soon as you tun in the gas and won't start. I'm far from a mechanic and looking for help, anyone got some ideas for me?
- Thread starter Awelsh
- Start date
Jimmy in TN
Member
Sounds like the float may have a hole in it and be full of gas
rustred
Well-known Member
as mentioned float may be toast. best bet is to just remove carb and give it a cleaning by soaking it in carb cleaner,and blowing out good with air. could possibly be debri stuck in needle and seat, or just worn out, or even float hanging up. check the pin that holds float in place. float level setting i believe is 1 5/16 . if you have it all apart best to put a kit in. but thats some thing to look for.
I tested float in hot water per Farmall web site and it did not bubble to indicate a leak so I can't figure out what is causing my gusher, I'm no rocket scientist but this Is not making sense to me. Do yo think it's as simple as just a carb kit with new gaskets and washers?
John M
Well-known Member
- Location
- Nunyafn business
Could be even simpler, a peice of trash is stuck in the needle and seat. Just dont know until you get in there and look. The float may be catching on the sides of the bowl. Squeeze it in a little carefully and try that.
Frank Caldwell
Member
I had this happen on my H a couple of times. The float needle may be bad. Our state requires gas to be 10% alcohol. I think this deteriorates the seal of the needle.
soybeanjoe
Member
Seems like the needle valve & seats you buy anymore just don't last long. I'm not sure but I think it has a lot to do with unleaded gas. I've replaced them & had the new ones go bad the next day :~(. I have an M, 2 SMs, & a SMTA that we use on augers & play with & it's gotten to the point I keep at least one new needle valve & seat on hand. I have had much better luck with the ones CIH sells than with aftermarkets.
FWIW, When I buy an old tractor I clean the carn by soaking in carb cleaner and put a new kit in. After doing that I have never had a float go bad . Just a bunch of needle valves & seats
FWIW, When I buy an old tractor I clean the carn by soaking in carb cleaner and put a new kit in. After doing that I have never had a float go bad . Just a bunch of needle valves & seats
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
Never, I repeat never, test a float in HOT water.
The heat will cause the air inside the float to expand, and those solder joints will just plain blow wide open.
If the float is defective and has a hole in it, the air bubbles will show up just as well using COLD water.
Your carburetor most likely can be cured with a simple, basic gasket set and a new needle valve and seat. About $10.
The heat will cause the air inside the float to expand, and those solder joints will just plain blow wide open.
If the float is defective and has a hole in it, the air bubbles will show up just as well using COLD water.
Your carburetor most likely can be cured with a simple, basic gasket set and a new needle valve and seat. About $10.
teddy52food
Well-known Member
I have been testing floats in hot water all my life & haven't blown one yet. You need hot water to expand the air so it will come out to show the leak. If it leaks with cold water , you have a big hole.
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
Maybe you've never had one pop open, but I have.
Check the pivot pin for the float. If it's the same as an H, the pin slides through 2 supports, one is split, and pinches the pin so it won't slide out. If the support isn't pinching the pin, the pin will slide out just about as soon as gas fills up the carb, the float cocks sideways, and won't close the needle valve. Ask me how I know... You can squeeze the split support a little with a pliers so it will hold the pin.
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