Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
is there any way to test pressure out put of injecter pump, on the motor.and how mutch presser. thanks for any help.
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Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
bought not running,clean fuel,new starter and cables [2/0]new glow plugs,smokes black/gray wants to start. starting fuild, nothing!in time with marks.checked compression 260,260,260,260,260,300. when i loosen inj. nut it don't shoot fuel mutch.if this helps?fuel runs out timing window good. i'm going to tomha for ntpa thursday, i'll check back sunday night. thanks for your thoughts.jack.
armand tatro
Well-known Member
Not sure about the D282 in a 706 but on a 560D with D282 there is a rubber hose from the final filter to the fuel pump. Use the shut-off at the tank. Take hose of fuel pump. Open fuel tank and catch fuel in can.(might need extra person to turn fuel on and off.) Let fuel run for 2 min. should be FULL FLOW NO DRIZZLE. iF ONLY A DRIZZLE after 2 or 3 min. you might have a bad hose. Try new hose and see what happens. I have been using a 560D for 45+ years and had to replace two hoses. Also check priming pump if your tractor still has one. Let us know what happens. By the way when you reconnect the hose to the injector turn fuel on and bleed hose before tightening fitting. Armand
Allan in NE
Well-known Member
Hi Jack,
The trouble with those big frame tractors is that ya can't pull 'em down the road at 15-20 mph to start 'em. :>(
Does that old sister have an engine heater? If it does, plug 'er in for 4 hours to get it darned good and hot, pump it up tight with that manual fuel primer and with a monster set of a batterys, give it another try. If you can get it to spinning at a real good clip, it "might" run.
My point here is that those compression readings are awfully darned low. From your figures, looks to me like you've only got one cylinder with enough umph to even ignite. Like to see compression on diesels at a minimum of 275 and upwards to around 400 lbs.
Thus, the reason for it "Smoking grey/black and wanting to start".
Now, on the other side of the coin, I've been able to get some really tired old diesels to pop/run after installing a new injection pump and a new set of injectors.........but still, that's a $2K gamble if you're reasonably confident in the accuracy of your compression tester.
As always, this is just my opinion and stated as such,
Allan
The trouble with those big frame tractors is that ya can't pull 'em down the road at 15-20 mph to start 'em. :>(
Does that old sister have an engine heater? If it does, plug 'er in for 4 hours to get it darned good and hot, pump it up tight with that manual fuel primer and with a monster set of a batterys, give it another try. If you can get it to spinning at a real good clip, it "might" run.
My point here is that those compression readings are awfully darned low. From your figures, looks to me like you've only got one cylinder with enough umph to even ignite. Like to see compression on diesels at a minimum of 275 and upwards to around 400 lbs.
Thus, the reason for it "Smoking grey/black and wanting to start".
Now, on the other side of the coin, I've been able to get some really tired old diesels to pop/run after installing a new injection pump and a new set of injectors.........but still, that's a $2K gamble if you're reasonably confident in the accuracy of your compression tester.
As always, this is just my opinion and stated as such,
Allan
Is this your first 706? I"ve had two of the beasts and both were EXTREMELY hard to start unless warmed up as stated. IH was going for longevity on these things and used a "low compression" diesel, no sense to me, but that"s what I"m told. Once running, they are great machines, very thrifty on fuel but need to run on the high end of the throttle kinda like a two-stroke. Still, a BEAR to start! My humble.
dg
dg
Allan in NE
Well-known Member
Yepper,
I agree. Back in the days of the 282, all diesels were of the "low compression" club. That's just how they were and they needed a little help in the way of glow plugs, run it on gasoline; or some other darned way to "heat it up" to start.
In the winter time, it helped to advance the timing a degree and they would pop off "a bit better" for cold weather operation.
The direct injection types came in later with the higher compression pressures and no need for all that "pre-combustion chamber" nonsense.
But, still and all, they were at a ratio of 16:1 and this would/will produce adequate pressures for ignition if the engine was/is in good shape.
Allan
I agree. Back in the days of the 282, all diesels were of the "low compression" club. That's just how they were and they needed a little help in the way of glow plugs, run it on gasoline; or some other darned way to "heat it up" to start.
In the winter time, it helped to advance the timing a degree and they would pop off "a bit better" for cold weather operation.
The direct injection types came in later with the higher compression pressures and no need for all that "pre-combustion chamber" nonsense.
But, still and all, they were at a ratio of 16:1 and this would/will produce adequate pressures for ignition if the engine was/is in good shape.
Allan
They are not actually a low compression engine, 17 to one is pretty std for farm tractors. It is a pre-combustion chamber style there fore uses outward opening,low pressure injection nozzle which requires a lot of turbulence to burn properly. You do not have that much turbulence at cranking speed therefore you use the glow plug to help get combustion started. If compressin pressures are low due to wear you will never start well. Cranking speed is of utmost importance to get them going. Large batteries, large cables in good conditon and good starter. One will notice that the 282 has a rather lightly built block, crank, piston etc, and the reason is because it is a pre cup engine and the cup in the head absorbs much of the rapid pressure rise of combustion. Direct injection engines have a much heavier block and crank etc, but not because the ratio is higher as some are actually lower. They start fine if in shape and proper procedures are followed. Timing should be at one degree BTDC. Been there, done that many times.
fallnhorse
New User
are your glow plugs working? Put a test light between the glow plug and wiring harness and test each glow individually. Hit the switch and if it lights up and it's good, and do it to each. Because you need to start there.
Or if your daring take them out and do it. They get hot quick! so watch out.
Or if your daring take them out and do it. They get hot quick! so watch out.
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