see post & replies
http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=farmall&th=766857

I tried a 194 bulb. It helps the excitement, since it is now at 3/4 throttle instead of nothing at wide open. not measuring with tach but it is also the cough/kill spot when cold.

My goal is for 1/2 or less to guarantee charging in MN winter during warm up time before throttle can be pulled to higher rpm.

a 194 bulb measures 4 ohm. the sealed panel light i was using measures 30 ohm. Need to find a panel fixture that will fit a 5/8 or 1/2 in hole and take a 194 or a bayonet with 4 ohm or less resistance.
tractor has sat a week without getting a dead battery, voltage in the 12.3-12.4 range, so that should indicate no diode leaks in the alternator.

i"m using stock size belt and smallest pulley (2.5in) I can without hood contact (1/4in clearance), which along with low rpm cut in are my goals for the conversion.

Looks like a regulator change or smaller belt with smaller pulley are the only way to get it any better. This alternator maybe even was a 1 wire but I never tested it as such. With the 2.5 pulley and 194 bulb the reman i tried previously might excite sooner as it was probably 500 rpm in my favor compared to the one on there now.

thanks for all the help
decision time...
karl f

I may get blasted for saying this, but if you take the alternator into a rebuild shop and ask them to put the new style d10ac regulator in it your problem will probably go away.Alot of people don't like 1 wire alts because of the old style regulator that was used.On the test bench most of the ones I build kick in at 1500 - 1700 alternator rpms, with the new style regs, some even a little less. hope this helps, jstpa

See Chad504 below. They will chrge on startup if they are a regular three wire regulator inside. (bulb, resistor, or diode.) Jim

Thanks Jim,
just to refresh, this one was only charging at idle if a full 12v was put to the #1 terminal.

Seems it is still not correct. At least more usable now, but not ideal.

-karl f

Have you tested the diode trio? Sounds like JS might be right with a new reg. If 1 or 2 sections of the trio are bad/ open, you won't get full field voltage/ current. Last year, the 1460 had 2 sections open on the trio--looked like the metal leads got melted. Use an analog [preferred] meter to test the diode trio. RX1 on the resistance scale with 1 lead on the single terminal--other lead to each of the other terminals. Readings should be either infinity [high ohms] or ~ 35 ohms. Now switch leads & readings should be reverse of previous test. If any of the 3 sections is open, replace the trio.

I believe a regulator change (new is cheap) will fix it. Jim