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Rebuild Steering on Super H

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Has anyone rebuilt the Steering on Super H? I had experienced a considerable amount of "Shimmy" in steering, so I tore it down. Replaced the upper and lower bushing. Replaced lower bearing and bearing on the worm gear for the steering shaft. Also replaced grease seal that the I and T suggest.
After got it back together and lower bolster put back on, I could still move the bolster from side to side about 1/8th inch. So I removed Steering shaft and mic'ed the bottom collar and found out that was where the play was. I made a shim from the old bushing to go on the lower collar and replaced it. It took all the play out of the it, however it is pretty hard to steer. It really drives nice without the previous "Shimmy", but it steers harder than what it did.
I'm assuming that the thing will loosen up some after I drive it for a while. Just wondering if anyone else has done the same and what the results were. Comments would be appreciated.
 
I did not approach the problem in the same way. I removed the top cover, replaced the old 19 ("half circle") tooth sector gear with a used 32 "full circle" tooth sector gear which I turned around 180 degrees in order to get fresh, unworn teeth. I also rotated the steering shart 180 to get a fresh surface for the worm. No more "flutter wheel". Steers easy.
Yes, I have just a tad of play in my bolster, but I'm not likely to beat it out much further in my lifespan with any hard use it may get from me. It drags the garden, moves trailers, carries the sprayer and serves as my 4X4 when I mount a carry-all on the back. (It has a Saginaw 3-point)....
Maybe yours had much more play in the bolster bearings than mine? I don't know without a side by side comparison but, if that is the case, I don't blame you for approaching your situation the way you did. Perhaps it will loosen up.
mike
 
I also had rotated the upper sector gear, but I didn't rotoate the worm gear. Didn't think about that. I don't know if that would work in that the worm gear turn 360 degrees so I don't know if that would have helped. Anyway just hoping that driving it a while will help loosen it up a little. Thanks for your reply!
 
(quoted from post at 17:01:19 06/10/10) I also had rotated the upper sector gear, but I didn't rotoate the worm gear. Didn't think about that. I don't know if that would work in that the worm gear turn 360 degrees so I don't know if that would have helped. Anyway just hoping that driving it a while will help loosen it up a little. Thanks for your reply!
Click to expand...

The worm gear does turn 360, but it should help bc your straight position is riding on "new" worm gear. This "new" part should have less play than the part that bounced through plowed fields and hammered down the road.
 
The lower bushing (part 31 in diagram) should fit the upper bolster shaft with no more than .010" clearance (more like .005" is reasonable) I am not sure where you placed the shim. I am all for making things work, there is a possibility that the thrust bearing (#29)is no longer supporting the weight of the tractor. If the lower bushing is any longer (downward), or interferes with the thrust being transferred to the bearing (29) then it will steer much harder. Possible wear in can happen, but if greasy, it might take decades!!!. Jim
CaseIH parts of steering
 
When I put in the lower bushing Part 31 that you make reference to I put it in and made sure that it was raise up enough to clear the lower collar on the stearing shaft. Where I made the shim was placing it around the lower collar on the stearing shaft. It is a little larger in dia. than the part of the shaft that would fit up into where the thrust washer and bearing goes into the lower bushing. That collar is about a 1/2 inch in height and I made a bushing or shim for lack of a better term and placed it around that 1/2 inch collar part of the shaft and then placed the entire shaft back in the lower bushing unit. It all fit well and after replacing it there was no sloppy movement of shaft. Don't know if I made it to tight or what. Maybe to tight, so that is why stears hard. I did make sure that it was greased for ease of movement. When I tighenen the castle nut on sector gear,noting that it didn't tighten as much as it did before I placed the shim in the lower bushing. I was able to get the cotter pin in the castle nut. I think maybe that is where the tighness comes from. Your comments are appreciated.
 
It sounds like you have removed all vertical travel from your upper bolster shaft and the gear is tightened against the housing at the upper bushing. The spacer (shim) at the thrust bearing should allow at least .005" of end play when the gear is tightened down.

My '51 H bolster and shaft were worn badly enough to require nearly 1/4" thick spacer. To get a good measurement for it, I put it all together as if it were the final assembly. The nut was tightened to line up the cotter pin hole and the end play was measured with a dial indicator. Subtracting .005" gave me the value to make the spacer.
 

Are you saying that you put your spacer under the sector gear. I have a very thin spacer or thrust washer there. That would make sense for the verticle travel. By placing the shim on the lower bolster I took out the play in it when I moved it back and forth horizonally. When I put the castle nut on the top the shim( made out of the old bushing that I took out)was drawn up into the the lower bolster really tight. Maybe the verticle play should be taken out by the spacer under the sector gear. If you would could you e-mail me a number in which I could talk with you personally. thanks for you comments on this.
 
The thrust bearing in the stack must have the load on it, not a shim under the bottom bushing.
The shim might be an issue. Jim
 
You should receive a phone number shortly.

My spacer removed excessive vertical play and went right under the thrust bearing. There is nothing under the gear. I see now that the shim you were describing removed excessive clearance in the bottom bore of the bolster housing. That is good.

The reason I put the spacer down below instead of under the sector gear was to have a better fit of parts. Plus, down there all the parts moved together so they wouldn't wear against one another. If the spacer is under the gear, it will always be rubbing against something every time you turn - either the gear, the shaft, or the housing.
 
Well taking the advice from the e-mail information and from Stan, I have removed the bottom shim that I made and put everything back together and have drove it, I'm a happy camper. The front end doesn't shimmy, stears easy and drives down the road straight. Thanks for everyones imput as it has solved my problem.
 
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