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Brakes SMTA

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I've put new linning disc and hardly able to get much brake at all. Really quite unsafe to drive. Need a little help on this. Thanks
 
have you cleaned all the balls and ramps in the actuator ? They need to be able to move freely.

Andrew
 
Also, you need to adjust the pedal linkage to where you have about 1" (I think) free travel before you start feeling good pedal resistance. I will pull my SMTA brake manual tomorrow and provide you with more statistics on the adjustment procedures.
 
I would appricate any help you can find. I have adjusted and have a hard pedal but I just can't push hard enough to get very much brake even by just puching on one pedal without the lock. Thanks Ben
 
Agree with Wayne. I rebuilt 2 SH brake systems recently. Did the same to both with exception that I had the shop machine .100 off the drums of one system. Final result was "adequate" brakes on one and "tire skidder" on the machined drum unit.

Gordo
 
The metal surfaces are heavily glazed from prior use/abuse, so the brakes won't work well.

Use an angle grinder with a flap disk to break the glaze on the brake actuator, the inside of the drum, and the side of the transmission housing.

Or send your brakes out to OEM Tractor for machine work.

As for it being unsafe... NAH! We never had decent brakes on those old tractors and somehow we managed to not kill ourselves on the hills we got around here. :)
 
Ben:
According to the [b:a391061081]Blue Ribbon Service Manual, Form GS-1051, "Brake Service, Super-MTA Tractor[/b:a391061081]", the key measurements are as follows:
Operating Rod Spring (the coil spring on the shaft) Pre-load Dimension: set at a length of 1-3/16 inches.
Free Pedal Movement adjust: 1-1/8 to 1-3/8 inches movement by hand at top of rear frame cover.
Lining And Disc Overall Thickness: Normal: .490" to .505. Minimum: .438"
Hope this helps. Like the others have said, you may have to have the housings turned down anywhere from .060" to .100" to compensate for wear on the friction surfaces.
mike
 
I want to thank every one who responded to my propblem. Now to the shop and go to work. I'sure one of the fixes will work Thanks!!!
 
(quoted from post at 10:57:50 06/04/10) The metal surfaces are heavily glazed from prior use/abuse, so the brakes won't work well.

Use an angle grinder with a flap disk to break the glaze on the brake actuator, the inside of the drum, and the side of the transmission housing.

Or send your brakes out to OEM Tractor for machine work.

As for it being unsafe... NAH! We never had decent brakes on those old tractors and somehow we managed to not kill ourselves on the hills we got around here. :)
Click to expand...

I always thought they were slowing and turning aids. I haven't been on many old Farmalls that had "lock 'em up" brakes. My H does LOCK one up, but it is either full locked or nothing. I think I would rather have a slowing device. :D
 
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