ok i messed up, now i got to figure out where, i got my new/old plow depth control installed, [manuel handle], did not come with link between it and the drawbar, now i think this is where im off, i made linkage based on what i saw on tm's impliment hook up photos, drawbar level,flange on control handel paralell to it, all else is hooked up as in the original manuel i have, for the plow, when i try to plow, the plow point will not "dig" into the ground and suck under, it just skips along the top, i need to know the exact length on the original link between the drawbar and the depth control handle, also how sharp is the point supposed to be? this one is about like the blade on a brush hog sharp, pointy but it wont cut ya, its beem 35 years since i tryed to plowand thaty was with a 3 bottom on a m, not a single on a cub, and im sure im forgetting something here but the link must be the first thing, thanks, sorry this is so long
- Thread starter ericlb
- Start date
Rusty wheel
Well-known Member
When the tilt lever is all the way forward, the drawbar will be almost dragging in the dirt. I had trouble getting my plow to suck in too and I discovered that it was worn so much that the plow point was riding on the heal behind the cutting edge. I used a disc grinder to grind off the heal and now it does a great job. Hope this helps. rw
thanks rusty it does, and that is the problem, when my handle is all the way foward my drawbar is only about 3 inched below level, i have made that link too short, my plow looks almost new, the point is about 3/4 inch below the lower outside of i believe the shin,[ the piece below the moldboard, and behind the point], the original manuel cautions strongly on having the point sharpened by somebody who has the proper knowledge to do it, so im , oh oh, there is a trick or 2 to it and theres never a old farmer around here who knows how, when you need him, and i dont want to ruin it, the coulter barely has any wear at all either, original paint os on the main beam still -mostly
Another minor pointer - the 140 that we used for plowing wont go anywhere if the air pressure in the right rear tire is too high. The first time we used it (1978) the tractor would plow about 10 feet, and then bury the right rear tire like it was heading to china.
The mechanic from the dealership came out and after a few hours checked the tire pressure reduced it to 10 psi (was 32)and it did great after that.
This winter when I was plowing snow with a rear blade with it, I found I was holding the right brake down. Put the valve stem at the top to check the air pressure, and when I tried to take the cap off I unscrewed the whole valve stem lol I got it screwed back in just in time - but it solved the right tire spinning looks like it has about 8 psi in it now.
The mechanic from the dealership came out and after a few hours checked the tire pressure reduced it to 10 psi (was 32)and it did great after that.
This winter when I was plowing snow with a rear blade with it, I found I was holding the right brake down. Put the valve stem at the top to check the air pressure, and when I tried to take the cap off I unscrewed the whole valve stem lol I got it screwed back in just in time - but it solved the right tire spinning looks like it has about 8 psi in it now.
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This is the depth control for a Cub 2-way plow. I believe the right hand plow is the same as your single right hand plow. The link has holes at 6", 7", and 8" from pin to pin.
I don't see why you could not make the link even longer. You can also pickup a little less than an inch by bolting the plow to the bottom side of drawbar. If doing that you could also use longer bolts and add some washers.
My plow has no trouble going to 8" of depth. The hand lever can also be moved while the tractor is plowing. That's handy when running out of traction.
If you need a picture of the link, I can do that later.
This is the depth control for a Cub 2-way plow. I believe the right hand plow is the same as your single right hand plow. The link has holes at 6", 7", and 8" from pin to pin.
I don't see why you could not make the link even longer. You can also pickup a little less than an inch by bolting the plow to the bottom side of drawbar. If doing that you could also use longer bolts and add some washers.
My plow has no trouble going to 8" of depth. The hand lever can also be moved while the tractor is plowing. That's handy when running out of traction.
If you need a picture of the link, I can do that later.
It should also be pointed out that the first furrow won't be as deep as the second and later furrows. That's because the right wheels will be running in a furrow and lowering that side of the tractor.
Yep, the drawbar will be nearly touching the ground after the first furrow.
Yep, the drawbar will be nearly touching the ground after the first furrow.
thanks wardner, thats what i needed to know, i made the link 6 inches long and i believe if i made another with the extra 2 holes and bolted the plow to the bottom of the drawbar all will be good, now if the sun will just get up enough to see out there i can get to work, lol, wish id payed more attention to grandpas plow itself, but as a teen, back in the day a M was still considered decent farm power, and i was more interested in grabbing some throttle on that M than paying close attention to what grandpa was trying to learn me lol
State of Jefferson
Member
You problem is more than likely that your plow is worn. I had to weld a piece of old leaf spring on the point of my cub plow to get it to suck in properly. The length of the link to the drawbar isn't critical. I just use a piece of chain on mine. If the plow is working right it will pull itself into the ground, and keep that chain tight. To get max depth with mine, I have the drawbar just about skidding on the ground.
Ben
Ben
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