300 PTO band adjustment?

On my 300 with live PTO, I tried adjusting the brake bands. The front screw (brake band) is backed way out to get it to turn with the operating lever centered. It takes about 15 ft Lbs to turn the shaft. When I disengage the PTO (engine running) it sqeals something awful like a tied hog. Makes me think both bands may be contacting/engaging. Maybe the brake band lining has come loose and cannot be adjusted far enough away from the drum. Any ideas? Does every 300 squeal?

I adjusted them with the two punched dots on the handle and quadrant aligned and then backed off the screws 1 turn each. Still squealed. Backed off 1/2 turn more. Still squeals. Backed off equally a whole bunch just to check. Still squeals.

Next problem is getting the PTO shaft seal retainer off the back of the PTO unit to disassemble and check. Its recessed and doesn't have any threaded holes to press it out. I tapped on it for half an hour in all different directions with a brass punch to try to get it to turn and a chisel in the groove around it to try to budge it. Any ideas?

Thank you very much, Devin

Is the fluid level in the final drive/trans up to full? If not it could be running low on fluid in the case.
If there is any wear or lost motion in the linkage (at all) the adjustment will be off. (way off in some cases) (reprint from prior post of mine):
The linkage on well used PTOs on the utility series become dysfunctional after years of use.
Two suggestions:
Make very sure there is no lost motion in the hand lever pivot and rod mechanism. Be certain the hand lever moves the PTO lever from the middle both ways.
Adjust it like this, after there is no play in links.
Move the lever exactly half way between the locked on position and locked off position (little flipper catch on lever.
Take off the little dome metal cover from the adjust screws.
Loosen the jamb nut, and tighten the front (away from you) screw until it is just a bit tighter than the point at which it begins to feel tighter as it is screwed in (maybe a eighth turn) then back it off until the PTO shaft will turn with least drag (about 3/4 turn out) and tighten the lock nut while holding the adjuster.
Do the same for the closer adjuster.
If the screws go into the jamb nuts and get flush with the top surface of the nut, the bands are probably worn out, and may be operational for a while, but plan on a rebuild.
Now (tractor off) push the the lever down toward the brake footplate. As it goes down, it should get harder to push when it is about 4" (or so) away from fully OFF. and be noticeably harder to push for the last inch, but not real hard. (this is the brake band tightening on the drum in the PTO unit.
Then pull it up and do the same feel.
The ON position should feel the same way.
The shaft should turn pretty free when the lever is half way, and not at all when in either ON, or OFF. (tractor shut off)
If it slips now, it needs a rebuild. JimN

Note that the IPTO has its own resevoir, fluid is not supposed to move between the trans/diff and the PTO. If you are going to disassemble the PTO, the seal should come out with the housing cover. Refer to the parts section of www.caseih.com for a diagram. I have replaced the bands in my 460, but having a lousy memory, I don't remember the details. external_link and others have used bands for about $100 apiece. New(forget it) are $700+ apiece. Fairly easy to change. Some say they can be relined, but no one in this area does that.

Hi, Devin.

I can't help with the band adjustment (haven't done it yet myself), but I know exactly what you're talking about with regard to the rear shaft bearing retainer (sometimes called the “seal retainer.”)

I assume by “300” you mean 300 Utility and not Farmall 300. If you mean Farmall, I don't know whether what I'm about to say will apply to your situation.

During the past couple of weeks I've removed the rear PTO housing cover from a 300 Utility and a 350 Utility. The 300 had cover # 360153R11 (non-recessed), and the rear shaft bearing retainer popped off easily with just a little prying with a screwdriver.

Not so with the 350. It had cover # 364708R2 which, as you noted, is recessed. I could (just barely) get a screwdriver blade between the outer edge of the rear shaft bearing retainer and the recess in the housing cover, but there wasn't enough room to do any effective twisting or prying. I tried – and failed – to get some skinny hooks into the bolt holes and behind the retainer so I could pull on it. Finally, I did just what you're describing – pound sideways on the bolt holes with a punch. As you know, it's hard to get a good angle on it in order to do that. I did goober up the bolt holes just a little, but the retainer finally came loose.

I'm considering a couple of approaches for reassembly. I was going to drill and tap the retainer for a pair of 5/16” stainless studs to give myself something to pull on next time. I'm currently leaning toward tapping the smooth bolt holes in the retainer with the next largest standard thread (looks like 7/16 or so). This won't interfere with the retainer bolts, but next time I remove those bolts I'll be able to insert some cap screws to pull on, or to screw in (gently, being careful of the existing threads in the cover) to push the retainer away from the cover.

If you're REALLY stuck right now, you could probably try partially tapping those holes with the retainer cover in place. You don't want to go too deep and chew up the retainer bolt threads in the cover, but you could probably create enough threads in the retainer to get a sufficient grip on it. Of course, you'd want to clean the whole thing thoroughly before reassembly to get rid of any chips.

Good luck; let us know how it goes.

Mark W. in MI

The retainer cover with a dried on gasket will come off a lot easier if you heat it.

I used a mapp gas tank and constantly rotated it around the retainer cover edge, not red hot just hot enuf to heat up loosen gasket, then beat it with a brass drift as devin did and it popped off, the brass drift alone would not budge the retainer cover on my 460.

The bands cost me more than i thought, as i let the Int-Case dealer send them to a brake reliner- I was not sure what i would get sending it out myself, and they would likely have to warranty it if it fell off. The liner material had cross relief lines (criss-crossed) as apposed to old circular style reliefs in original liner. The Service guy told me he had used them for years. So it cost me $240 for both- overall thickness is .260in or 6.3mm i think. liner is about .125 thick so better than the $625 quoted each new.

My last problem is the creeper drum not going on over the key in the shaft very well

I used the cover and tightened the bolts to push it in, but then the bearing started to push out-- Does anyone know - should it go on that hard, i dont want to damage it, but it seemed the puller pulled it off alot easier see my pics on 460 utility pto bands.

I know it is sliding over the shaft- almost all the way on, but the forawrd hub is not on enough to get the bearing lock nt screwed on