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Need ideals. Tractor running hot

L

Larry B 1486

Member
My 1486 has been running hotter than normal and today it almost touched the red. Did not come out the overflow so was going to look in the radiator and when I cracked the cap, it shot up about 10 ft and all the coolant shot up also. When cooled down it took about 5 gal to fill it back up. Have already changed the theromstat, new fan belts, washed radiator out thru the fins with a pressure washer, changed the fan blades from a 6 blade to a 8 blade (which made it run a little hotter yet. Don't understand that one) and radiator cap. Looking in the rad., it is flowing and no air bubbles or foaming or pressure untill it gets hot . Thought about replacing the water pump but no leaking and it is flowing good when you rev up the motor. What do I need to do????
 
First, NEVER take off the radiator pressure cap when the engine is hot!!!!!!!!
Second, test the temp gauge; it may be reading too hot.
Third, with 50/50 antifreeze & water + pressure cap the temp will get up to 240 or more & not boil AS LONG AS THE PRESSURE CAP IS IN PLACE!!!
When you took off the cap & removed the pressure, the mixture instantly boiled. Learn a lesson here.
 
It may be you dont really have a problem that needs solving yet. It could be though the thermostat is not openning fully, guage wearing out, a worn water pump impeller or slipping belts to name a few.

Most of the tractors I have used do not have a temp guage, but when they start running hot (230 degrees) the start venting steam. I would check the coolant before starting every time and just keep a close eye on it. The first time after refilling it- it may push some out the overflow but after that you will see where the full line is.
 
Wow, can't believe you didn't get burned taking the cap off like that....lucky, I guess.

Agree its probably useful to check the accuracy of the temp gauge. If its correct, then you most likely need to have the radiator rodded out. The fact that coolant is flowing does not mean that its flowing through all the tubes. Radiators depend on the coolant flowing slowly through a large number of tubes to get maximum heat transfer. If some of the tubes are clogged, not only do you have less area to transfer heat, but the coolant is moving faster over the area you do have and therefore not transferring enough heat to the air.

Keith
 
Check your front pulley and see if it is loose from the rubber.If that is OK it could be the injection pump intravance is wore out or the front bushing has turned in the hsg.Had one that was worn enough that it melted the head arouund the valve area.
 
I put a temp guage one that you check radiators with down in it one day and it was reading 245 and the tractor temp guage was showing close to the red but not on it. Most of the time you turn the rad. cap to the first notch you can tell if there is pressure and not take it off all the way off but this one came off after just a little turn. I do know it is running around 240-250 degrees.
 
Could the timing be off, to fast or slow? It does start easy. Had the pump rebuilt last year. Could they have to much fuel turned up?
 
Yep,

If it's got too much smoke, it'll heat.

I've got two of my tractors turned up just about as far as I can safely go. Both will run hot if I'm really working either and have to drop a gear for half a round to bring it back down.

Don't forget that IH was famous for making the absolute worst heat gauges ever. That would be the first place I'd look. :>)

Allan
 
I was having trouble with my Model A Ford awhile back. I went to Sears and purchased an digital heat detector that all you do is point at the heat source and it records a digital read out. Nice thing is you can point it on the radiator, engine block or transmission. As I recall it is about $50.00.
 
Hi don't have experience on the large IH Diesels but had same problem on a 74 series Diesel and had to have the rad steam cleaned. As someone else said the rad gets a scale in the tubes and the heat does not transfer to the air passing over the tubes.
 
Purchase or borrow one of the digital heat guns.
Check top tank temp vs bottom tank temp.
Not enough coolant flow....large temp difference
Not enough air flow.....small temp difference.
Temp drop is usually 12-15 F for most designs.

Reason for large difference when not enough coolant flow, the coolant spends too much time in the radiator and the fan can suck more heat out.
Causes? tubes partially plugged, water pump not efficient, hose collapsing internally, wrong head gasket, etc.

Not enough air flow, belts slipping, fan on backwards, radiator fins plugged, fan shroud missing, recirculating warm air back thru the radiator. (check that shields, air dams, and foam blockages are in place to prevent air recirculation)
 
Forgot to add that the tests need to be done when hot enough that the thermostat is fully open.
(and not fully open is another coolant flow possibility)
 
I am not bashing you, It would be a faulty gauge that allowed you to "put it down in it one day) and read 245. Even a proper mix of coolant and water will boil at that temp, so that gauge was wrong.
The most important thing is to find out if the temps are distributed as in the other post. Use that infrared device to check the temps remotely.
If it is being worked to the engine HP limit and it heats it could just need a good radiator cleaning.
If it is heating on modest pulls, it is possibly a pump impeller, or internally restricted hose. Jim
 
Take out the radiator and get it rodded and cleaned, probobly needs to be done anyway,should'nt be more than 100.00.bet your troubles go away.
 
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