Super A flooding as soon as i turn on tank valve

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I cleaned gas tank, put in carb kit (Carter UT), I have had this carb on and off at least ten times.(float was sticking, got it fixed, i can hear it move when i turn the carb upside down etc...)so i assumed i fixed it. everytime i install carb, get ready to start, i turn on tank valve by the time i get back to start tractor ( pull choke or not) i see fuel leaking out the hole in carb throat. I am so frustrated, i even let a local mechanic check it, said it was ready to go and same situation occured, please help. What am I doing wrong????
 
Is the inlet needle seat #%^& TIGHT into the carb body with it's gasket in place?

Is the float "heavy"?

Just because the float is rattling around in there doesn't mean it isn't still bent. It MAY be making contact with the carb body somewhere just as it begins to push the needle closed against the seat.

If there's two "floats" on a forked arm are they at the same height?
 
I know it's frustrating but you just have to get in there and calmly evaluate what is wrong. This is going to center around the needle as previously stated. Drain it, open it up, and do the checks Bob gave you. Make sure your needle is seating properly and that it is properly assembled with the float so that the float can close it. Check your float carefully to make sure it is adjusted per the manual and not leaking. It's like a boat...by definition it is not "floating" if it is submerged. You've missed something here and only careful reading of the manual and studying of your carb is going to solve it. Been there and done that! Keep at it...you'll get it.
 
Does you carb kit have a viton tip needle? Those are notorious for not seating well. Then if you give it too much of a tap to seat it, it will stick.

Check the surface area of the float where the needle. Sometimes a little indention forms over time and even when you set the float right, the needle rides low in the indention. Have to flatten the area out.

Brass needles are best.

Mine and others runs gas out the carb as well. The trick is to go ahead and start it, then it burns it instead of leaking and sorta fixes itself.

Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about it. That is why it is necessary to shut the fuel off on those things.

Post back with what you do.
 
Do everything the other guys suggested. Plus on H's and M's I have with the carb split in two mounted just the top half with the float and needle valve and then turned on the gas to see where the float is engaging the needle and if the needle valve will acutally stop the flow of gas or if it is bad. Like someone one else mentioned this is killer frustrating but take your time and you will eventually get it right.
 
I had a similar problem with a Zenith carb that I rebuilt. It drove me crazy for a while until I examined the parts in the rebuild kit. Every thing was the same except that the new needle was a different length than the original one. Put the carb together with the new parts from kit and old needle and it worked perfect. Just a little info. Allan
 

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