1946 Farmall 330 Hydralics

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Please help. While grooming my arena, Hydralics stopped in the up position. Removed pump. Recently had the Hydralic Pump rebuilt and it appears it is still working. Removed lines to hydralic at rear, the 3 point hitch lowered, fluid came out, I reconnected lines and pump. Started engine and 3 point hitch went up. It will not go back down. Any ideas?
 
Never around a 330 unless at a show, but think there is probably a check valve at least on the hose that returns oil when the cylinder goes down. May want to check that the hydraulic valve switch hasn't moved to single acting and if no problem there, check the check valve.
 
Please help us help you
There were no number series Farmall tractors in 1946
If it has a 3 point and it is factory it is much newer. I know of Farmall 240 and 340 and 350, but no 330 unless it is an import (non domestic production.
Make sure the draft control lever is fully moved, and not part way. Jim
 
Jim, don't know if he just has the wrong year and name.
International 330 was made in 58 using a 350 chassis and a C135 engine. Think the hydraulics are probably like a international 350, but as said only looked at one at a show that I can remember.
 
Ok. I'm an idiot. The tractor is a 340. I will try the things recommended. If the correct year narrows things down for you, I'm still open for suggestions. I will try the things recommended. Thank you. I don't know anything about hydralics.
 
I was looking for a tall Farmall and missed the boat. I believe he will find a broken link in the teledepth or traction control system. there are plenty of linkages to get out of whack. Even the little splined shafts and fittings on the lever shanks inside the valves (where handles were pivoted on earlier models were troublesome. I wish him luck. Jim
 
Just for the educational value, the 340 was built from approximately 1959 until 1963. Unfortunately it has the Tel-a-depth system where you move the lever that controls the hitch to a certain position, and the hitch moves there, right?

Does it have other hydraulic levers? Do you need them for other purposes?

Just as a quick remedy, you can connect your hitch cylinder to one of the other hydraulic remotes. You will have to do the height adjustment manually, but at least it will go up and down.

Just connect the two open ends from the hitch control together with a hose so you don't dump your oil all over the ground.

The tel-a-depth system is pretty complicated. A lot of guys will replace it with a regular valve body.
 
If you had the pump rebuilt recently, was it "broken in" on a test stand? If not, you may have contaminated your system with metal shavings. I am not positive, but believe these had a gear pump like most IHs had at the time, and the last "machining operation" we did at our plant was to run them for break-in on a test machine. We had high pressure filters on the output of the pump (between the pump and relief valve) to catch the metal shavings from break-in. These filters were changed every shift due to the amount of shavings. The same thing applied in our "re-man" area as it did for new pumps.
 

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