Hey guys, just picked up a new to me 400 farmall. Everything works as it should and is fairly straight. It is painted like the 450, which I have to admit that I like, and it has the 450 overbore firecrater kit in it. Is there anything in particular I should know about these tractors? Any tricks? I have had two H's and get along great with them so I'm hoping this one goes just as well. Oh yeah and its a gasser too. Thanks for any advice!
- Thread starter DK44H
- Start date
If I had a 450, I would paint it like a 400. That white grill is a feeble stylistic attempt to update the best looking M class tractor. The white grill is out of place and an eyesore but I can understand the white panel as being a preview of future IH paint trends. It also reflected the contemporary automotive paint stylings among the US mfgs. Two tone cars were a big hit in the middle to late '50s.
IH should have squared off the grill on the 450 if they wanted to distinguish the 450 from the 400. They took the cheap route.
IH should have squared off the grill on the 450 if they wanted to distinguish the 450 from the 400. They took the cheap route.
Thomas Keiber
Member
I have gasser with nfe and like it. I use it to mow with 7 ft brush hog. I plan on making hay this year and using it for that. I put a 12 volt system on mine. I had to fix the ipto on mine. I have had to replace seal which stops hydro oil from going into motor twice cheap to fix. I would buy another if the price was right. Good luck with yours.
My great grandfather bought one new in 55 I have used it on everything about 2 yrs ago I completly restored it now just run in parades. Things to look out for. do not engage toqure with out it being under a load. It does not hold back like newer ones.Make sure battery box bolts are tight before you sit on seat it is a long way to the ground backwards and it hurts. sometimes the seal blows out of the hydrolic pump and fills the crank case with oil. zif you are doing heavy work keep the gas tuck close.It is a good tractor. Paint is fine it was done by dealers to be able to sell left over models when the 350 and 450 came out,ours was bought new from the dealer that way.
I like the white grill and side panel on the 130/230/350/450. But if it is a 100/200/300/400, I would paint it all red to separate it from the 50 series. I do not consider the white on the 30/50 series a cheap predecessor to the 40 and 60, etc series. But, I do not care for the imitation white trim on the letter series, just doesn't look right. In other words, I prefer the way the factory did it on all series.
Compared to the H tractors some extra things to check. Get a operators manual and try to keep the clutch T/A linkage & IPTO bands adjusted correctly. Keep hydraulic fluid and system clean.
Check the oil pressure line to gauge, temperature gauge line and choke cable for rubbing the fuel tank or anything else. Also the hydraulic line for rubbing vibration and proper clamps. Check tightness of sheet metal bolts every so often. Keep corossion down in battery box and clean around steel hydraulic lines to rear along box and under cover or they will rust a hole in them.
My opinion is the all red looks the best with shiney emblems. Also think its a pain to remove the sheet metal and fuel tank if needed to service the hydraulic valves or regulator block on those tractors. I still have one I use though.
Check the oil pressure line to gauge, temperature gauge line and choke cable for rubbing the fuel tank or anything else. Also the hydraulic line for rubbing vibration and proper clamps. Check tightness of sheet metal bolts every so often. Keep corossion down in battery box and clean around steel hydraulic lines to rear along box and under cover or they will rust a hole in them.
My opinion is the all red looks the best with shiney emblems. Also think its a pain to remove the sheet metal and fuel tank if needed to service the hydraulic valves or regulator block on those tractors. I still have one I use though.
Dave,
You need to trade that gas model for a LP. I just added two valves and their manifolds by sliding the LP tank ahead 2" on my W-400. Yep, I did have to tilt the cowl back too. But I am glad that job is done. I was dteading it for awhile. It wasn't as bad as I thought.
I was thinking about using that valve endplate (shown in the recent Utility thread) with the power beyond ports. I restrained myself due to the fact it would have required two new holes in the cowl sheet metal. But it would have been fun to hang three more valves outside of the cowl. At this time, I still need another circuit and probably more later.
You need to trade that gas model for a LP. I just added two valves and their manifolds by sliding the LP tank ahead 2" on my W-400. Yep, I did have to tilt the cowl back too. But I am glad that job is done. I was dteading it for awhile. It wasn't as bad as I thought.
I was thinking about using that valve endplate (shown in the recent Utility thread) with the power beyond ports. I restrained myself due to the fact it would have required two new holes in the cowl sheet metal. But it would have been fun to hang three more valves outside of the cowl. At this time, I still need another circuit and probably more later.
armand tatro
Well-known Member
When you remove the hood panels (or any other sheet metal) that is held on with those phillips screws apply never-seize to the threads so they will come off the next time. OEM (and maybe this site and also Case-IH) will have those captive nuts for the hood if you need any. Do you have the 16 or 21 gal. gas tank? Armand
Had some gas ones but only a diesel now. Uses a lot less fuel, but filling the small tank with gas ever so often cuts down on the savings. Not as handy as gas for short jobs but good for half a day or more ones. Still pretty original tractor but came with a standard draw bar and I put a later hitch on. Pull 3X14 plow in bottom ground in 3 high without working it to the maxamin.
Didn't mention in the other post, lots of tractors with the 18 gallon tank and three valve hydraulics have a cracked, broken or already repaired support for the front outlet lines.
Didn't mention in the other post, lots of tractors with the 18 gallon tank and three valve hydraulics have a cracked, broken or already repaired support for the front outlet lines.
Yep, I am familiar with the 18 gallon manifold bracket as found on my F-400. I used the 21 gallon manifolds from a parts tractor which are better for my hose destinations. Don't know what is original with the W-400 LP. I should buy a parts book. Caseih.com doesn't cover my tractor.
Did you see the eBay Power Steering emblem that went up for the second time? It didn't sell at $40 the first time. On the second go-round it brought $176. I figured it would go for less than $40 due to a reduced reserve. Oh well, I don't need it that badly as I still need the W-400 Power Steering hydraulic drag link.
Did you see the eBay Power Steering emblem that went up for the second time? It didn't sell at $40 the first time. On the second go-round it brought $176. I figured it would go for less than $40 due to a reduced reserve. Oh well, I don't need it that badly as I still need the W-400 Power Steering hydraulic drag link.
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