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Farmall Super A Wheel Rim Issue

M

Mr. Dan

New User
Hello, all... long time, no post. The rear rim of my 1948 Super A rusted enough that rust pieces were puncturing my inner tube. I ordered a new one from Yesterday"s Tractors. The problem is the lugs. The new ones are different from the old ones. The old were square to hold a square bolt head (see pics) and about an inch inside the hole is a round hole for the bolt. This allows the bolt to be recessed or flush. The new lugs are round toward the center of the wheel, flat on the sides, have 4 little pegs inside and do not allow the bolt head to drop in - thereby making the bolt about an inch too short.

What can I do? Could this be the wrong rim? The new wheel has the correct part number (114713C1) as published on the Y.T. website although the site entry says "Replaces 56205DB".

Thanks in advance,
Dan
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No you didnt get the wrong rim thats the only one they have unless you get a used one. You will just have to get new bolts. I use a cariage bolt and it fits in the new rim bracket and doesnt turn if you get the right size.
 
Thanks, Erik. I have no desire to try to chase down a good original. I needed you to tell me I had the right wheel! So I need a round-headed carriage bolt whose square sub-head fits down into this new lug, big enough not to turn and with enough length to compensate for not dropping down into the square hole in the original, right?
I can do that.

Thanks again,
Dan
 
The new rims are all like the one you got. If you want original, you can buy a bare rim and the cast lugs and rivets (or reuse your old lugs). I would not use carriage bolts with your new rim. Instead, I'd go get some grade 5 or 8 hex head bolts and washers and use those. With that, you can use a wrench on both end to tighten the bolt and not worry about it turning. The loop setup on your new rims is like most all newer tractors.
 
With the new rim the carriage bolt will work j ust fine as the loops arent like the original. Most of the time the old rim needs to be sandblasted and repainted. What size tires are you using and did you get the correct size new rim.
 
You know ...If you got some appropriate sized square stock and welded it to the rim side of the loop, you could use a square headed bolt. It would look close to correct too. It would provide a stronger fit as opposed to the sq. underhead of a carriage bolt .
 
The tire is a 11.2-24. I can see through the old rim in a place or two and the valve stem hole is completely rusted out. The old rim is 26" across and 9.25" outside edge to outside edge. The new rim has 24x9 stamped on it but it's exactly 10" outside edge to outside edge.
 
Mr Dan
Go some were they know bolts. the ones you get at the big box stores will be to soft. you need a hard grade may be 5 or 8.
 
Do you have a Fastenal in the area?

If not, you can order Grade 5 carriage bolts from McMaster-Carr online.
 
Thanks... there's a Tractor Supply close to a place I have an appointment. I know they have at least three grades of bolts.
 
Dalex, there are several reasons I don't plan to do any welding (equipment and capability being 2)... and the tractor is not "original" enough to be concerned about making it look exactly correct. It has been modified. People on this forum helped me discover it has a 1952 Super C engine!
 
You can use the regular carriage bolts i have them on the B with the loader pushes snow lifts things and so forth they have been on the rims for probably 10yrs or so. Remember its just a SA and not 100HP monster. So just get regular ones and be happy. Mine even has two sets of wts one set on the inside of the center section and the second wt on the outside. Having one set on the inside keeps tractor narrower.
 
(quoted from post at 23:14:51 04/19/10) The tire is a 11.2-24. I can see through the old rim in a place or two and the valve stem hole is completely rusted out. The old rim is 26" across and 9.25" outside edge to outside edge. The new rim has 24x9 stamped on it but it's exactly 10" outside edge to outside edge.
Click to expand...

The rim width should be measured on the inside of the rim where the tire bead seats. Both your old rim and your new one are 24 x 9 wheels.
 
(quoted from post at 22:13:29 04/19/10) You know ...If you got some appropriate sized square stock and welded it to the rim side of the loop, you could use a square headed bolt.
Click to expand...
hat might cause a problem when you need to change the wheel spacing.
 
You don't really need grade 5 in this location. Plain grade 2 will hold just fine.

If you have the space, save your old rim. When the other one goes bad a welder can piece the two together for much less than a new rim.
 
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