Farmall B stuck engine

I have a Farmall B that I bought that has been sitting for around 20 years with a engine that won't turn over. One guy told me to dump kerosene down the spark plug hole and let it sit for a week or two and try rocking the crank back and forth. does this sound like a good idea? Any suggestions would be helpful.

Go into the archives. Hundreds of suggestions and guys favorite tricks for getting engines unstuck. I had a C that was in a flood. Never did get that one unstuck without removing the sleeves with the pistons.

I pop engines free all the time and I use ATF in all of them. So far I'm around 2 to 20 as in 20 popped free and 2 have not. Have a B soaking right now but think this will be #3 but who knows I still might get lucky

Why waste your time if ut had been setting for that long. Pull the head so you can see just how bad it is. You probably will have to remove sleeves along with the pistons as your new kit have everything but the rods.

make sure there isnt a valve stuck in open position that may be struck by upper movement of piston if it breaks free. previous post recommended removing the cylinder head prior to any attempt to rotate crankshaft, i to strongly recommend that. a bent pushrod or broken valve are easy to prevent. what ever you do dont force the engine to try and rotate by pulling it to try to get it to break free(bent rod). soaking with 50/50 acetone and atf works for me. good luck, d.coleman

Here's my routine. No expert but I've done 3. Fill the cylinders with trans fluid and let it soak. In the mean time pull the oil pan and clean. Pull the oil pump and clean the pick up screen. Pull the valve cover and see what's up under their. You can depress the valves that aren't already down. Pull the carb and soak it and rebuild. Clean out the gas tank. Check out the ignition, wiring, starter etc. It usually takes me a couple weeks or more in what little free time I have to get all this done. I do rock the tractor in gear occasionally to see if it is loose. All 3 came loose.
My 53 SH was too bad to even try to start but my rational is all the work described needed to be done anyway. $4500 later it is 95%reconditioned and runs perfect.
The 52 H had good compression and good power but smoked.
The Super C I am currently working on started right up and works fine no smoke and good compression. I am the second owner and according to the guy I bought it from his grandfather bought it new in 53 and passed in the late 80's. Near as we can tell the tractor sat for over 20 years. We had to unbury it from the shed that had collapsed on it. No water got in this motor. That helps alot.
All you can do is start the process and see what needs to be done.

Most all of the above was researched from the archives and previous posts. Thanks to all!