Touch Control problems - calling CNKS

It unfoturnately took several weeks from when I broke down the Touch Control block, until I could put it back to gethr.

I do believe I got all the correct o-rings on the right spool. Cleaned all the gunk out of the bottom of the pan, cleaned the needle-shaped screen.

I was about to put the head on, when I noticed a 5th small spring, ball-point pen sized, coming out of a hole. i believe it came out of the pressure control hole.

I double checked that I had a small spring in each spool hole (on two the springs go in to the front, on two the spools are reversed so the spring is on the head end)

The spring fit inside the metal cap in the pressure control hole, so that's where I put it.

With the tractor running at idle, one lift arm will move all the way to "full up" before the other lift arm moves at all. At full throttle, they move quicker, but still seem to be almost "sequenced" rather than "simutaneous".

Lifting of rear tools doensn't seem as powerful, particularly at less than full throttle.

I did notice that the fresh clean fluid I just installed appears darker than when I put it in just a few months ago. So I put fresh fluid in it again. If I have to take the head off, I'll seee if the fluid is dark again. I checked the filter, it was clean of any gunk.
Any idea where the 5th spring goes ?

CKNS is on here frequently, and he certainly saw your other post on this exact same issue... If he had anything helpful he would've posted. However he's as stymied about your problem as the rest of us, I'm sure.

There is a complete Touch Control service manual online at wwwDOTcleancomputesDOTcom/Cub. It covers both the Super A style and the Cub style Touch Control systems, and may have your exact problem right in the troubleshooting part.

While I can't help you on the mechanics of the problem, I can tell you that the color of the fluid has nothing to do with it. People often check/change the oil as the first troubleshooting step, when it really doesn't make any difference.

If the oil is the cause of the problem you would see much more obvious symptoms. You would hear very strange noises as gears grind themselves to dust. You would hear screeching as bearings siezed. You would find metal shavings. You may go so far as to find inside parts sticking through the case of the machine to the outside.

Nope, if the oil is wet and slippery, it's still doing its job. Maybe not as well as it would if it were new, but well enough that things aren't blowing up on you.

No matter what you do, the oil will start to darken almost immediately in whatever you put it in. If you didn't empty and clean the lines and the pump, that's where your discoloration is coming from. Not a big deal.

Here's a parts breakdown. Hal

Thanks for the input so far, particularly on the off-color oil.
Couv

I answered your post of 4/12 last night. I really don't know what your problem is, but the thing HAS to go together like the diagram that El Toro posted shows. As you said the outside two check valves have the plastic thing that holds the spring with the spring poking out of the block, the two inner check valves have the plastic and the springs inside the block. On the two inner ones you need the block horizontal to get the spring upright. You should feel resistance on the valve as you push it with your finger. The four check valves are not the same. The 2 inner ones are different from the 2 outer ones. And all 4 are supposed to go into the same bores as they came out of. So there are 4 springs altogether, the two small ones just mentioned and two larger ones. As El Toro's diagram shows the heavier, longer one goes in the hole for the safety valve, the shorter one is for the pressure regulator. As I stated in my other post, to get the block clean, it must be empty, that includes all the Allen head plugs, you can then wash out all the ports and get everything clean. There are also two valves on the underside of the block. On mine I am not sure they are functional, and I may replace them at around $70 apiece. All that said, the pump could be your problem, I have not disassembled mine yet, but there is not much to it. I hope I don't find excess wear. With a clean system, including the lines and the pump, the oil should not change color very fast. If you did not clean every passage, the lines and the pump, you will have contamination, how important this is I don't know. The sequencing of the rockshaft arms doesn't mean anything, at least as far as I know, as JimN said in your other post, the fluid takes the path of least resistance first. The only way you are going to be sure of that block is to disassemble it again and make sure it is correct, including the placement of the check valves. And clean everything. You need a service manual, actually for the touch control I think it is called servicemans guide. Mine is from Jensales (never again) and it is kind of jumbled up and not organized. Copy the "cleancomputes" one if you can.

Also, I just noticed yours is for a 100. Go to www.caseih.com and make sure that there aren't any changes. The Super A1 does have some different parts, 100 should be the same. But check anyway. My Super A parts manual includes the A1 parts, I have not checked the 100 diagrams.