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Calling The Tractor Vet or Owen

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
My 1256 is slobbering some coolant down the side of the block when worked hard. I had it at an independent shop having some other work done and I asked them about it. They said it really isn't that uncommon to see this with that motor and that it wasn't anything urgent but it should eventually be fixed. They don't have time to work on it now so I will probably wait until summer. These guys mainly specialize in IH and are pretty familiar with the DT407. However I have read many times on here where you stated that the DT407 is not an engine to be toyed with by a novice. I think these guys are up to the task but I wanted to pick your brain a little too. Is this fairly common? What other things should I be looking for when they fix it? They said they will send the head out and have it surfaced. Is this a good idea? Is there anything else I should do to the tractor while they have the head off? It runs great and doesn't use any oil. I just want to make sure it gets done right. I repect your opinions a lot. By the way they put the old girl on the dyno and she was running at 155 hp. Not too bad for a tractor that age.
 
Well if they work on them then they SHOULD know . And with it set at that much Hp. she is pushing compression past the head gskt. and trying to lift the head. . And no doubt that she will need the head trued up , also now is the time to get the valves done and the valve protrusion set CORRECTLY . Myself i think i would have NEW head bolts installed . Now maybe and maybe not they know that that head will need retorqued AFTER fifty hours of use so this means that even after you re torque after the engine is up to operating temp it should be done again after fifty hours and the valves reset. Myself i would feel more comfortable with a Hp, setting around 140 as that is more then enough, if ya need more then that then get a bigger tractor with more cu. in.
 
My 1256 does the bsame thing,weeps when I start heavy plowing in the spring,then kinda' heals'itself and doesnt leak for the rest of the summer.The '12' dynoed at 122hp 3-4 yrs ago.Another thing,it has a knock at idle and lower RPMs.open him up,and /orwith a small load the knock goes away.it knocked before overhaul(10yrs ago)and still knocks.I even took it to a 3rd party to "find the knock"--they couldnt.It drives me nuts,if it was'gonna blow',would have done it a long time ago.Any ideas?
 
When I compare the 12 to my 706(310german,turbo,dynoed 95 hp,10500 hrs.)the knockseems lots worse,the '7' is that smooth.For years,the 7 has been(still is)the standard by ALL others were measured.
 
The 361/407 engines really like to be fully warmed up before putting them under load. If you put a cool engine under full load on the dyno, most of them with the original style head gasket will leak some between the block and head. They seal up when they get to operating temperature.

A new style head gasket may cure your problem with the seepage but running in a lower gear until up to operating temperature may make it less noticeable.

When the head is off it should be checked for straightness but I would not have it surfaced unless it needed it to be trued up. Most of the later diesel engines have a spec that only allows about .010 to be removed from the head surface. That doesn't necessarily mean that it won't work if more is removed, but that is the minimum head thickness that IH published.
 
Thanks Vet. I have only owned the tractor for about 2 years. The horsepower is set where it was at when I got it. Maybe when I have them fix the gasket I should have them tune it down a little? It starts good and runs good now so I kind of hate to monkey with the valves, but if you think it is something I should do I will ask them to do it. Thanks again.
 
A friend of mine is working on the timing gear on a IH 464 tractor and the #4 gear fell out. He needs to know what mark to set it on. Anyone know this information?
 
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