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Am I thinking right on a 756....

D

Dan Swanson

Member
Looking at possibly buying a 756 with TA and 310D. Ran it last night. Engine runs great. With the T/A back, when you let out the clutch it really slips before it gets moving but the clutch pedal hits the floor of the cab. When you step on the brakes with the clutch out it stops real easy and the motor doesn't really pull down much. When you start out with the T/A forward, it starts out immediately and when you step on the brakes you can kill the tractor in 2H pretty easy. The power steering seems to be O.K. and the loader is ran off a remote hyd. with a power beyond valve. It seems to work o.k. too. You can lift the front of the tractor off the ground at an idle. Am I close at thinking maybe all is needed is to adjust the clutch and T/A per manual to get it to properly engage with the T/A back? Or it there something much deeper? What is the correct procedjure for starting it with the throttle cable and the overfueling setup? Thanks Dan
 
You can try the pixie dust and magic incantations, but if the TA is slipping in low odds are you're going to need to split the tractor and put in a new TA sooner or later. It'll go a while on the high side, but unlike the mechanical TA, which can run forever by simply removing the TA lever, the high side will eventually give out too.
 
Have owned one for over 30 years. Great tractor, great engine. TA problems are too common in all int tractors. How did they stayed with them all the years they did I don't know. I have used mine on the high side for many years, mine slips a little in low. Really don't need it to do my work. A complicated tractor for sure for just dubbing around as I do now, but I already owned it. Many more simpler tractors out there to buy.
 
Before condemning the TA, you need to consider that many of these tractors with "BAD" TAs are 35-55 years old, and on their original or possibly second TA unit.

At this stage of the game, if you need to put in a TA, you can guarantee that it will last forever in a collector tractor.
 
is,the T/A is probably out on the low side? What do you think about trying to adjust the clutch and T/A linkage or could it be set to allow the high side to work and it would be best to leave it alone. I can use it just fine in the high side for my needs. They are asking $6500 for it at a JD dealer. It has a nice case loader/grapple on it, not all broke up. Good tires and is pretty straight tin, Year around cab with no doors. I talked to the previous owner and he said the motor was really sound. He traded it because he needed something larger to reach across a flat bed semi-trailer when he unloaded bales. Any other thoughts? Thanks Dan
 
ta is gone.to start,thriottleto idle,pull cable out till resistance is felt(about 5/8or 3/4 out)when engine starts(should be imediate) pushcable in.to stop,pull cable all the way out.
 
If they are asking $6500, I wonder how much wiggle room there is on price. I've bought plenty of cars and know the wiggle room there but not for equipment dealers. When I bought that 460 years ago, the dealer saw me coming.
 
on those hydraulic TAs, high side is driven through a hydraulic clutch pack and low side is driven through the sprag, with another clutch pack to prevent freewheeling. so if you can stop the tractor but not the engine in low, that is not adjustment, hydraulic pump, etc. It means time for a new TA. other option is to leave the stick forward. if you buy it, do the adjustment anyway, cause that is what will make sure it stays in high and doesn't kill that clutch.
 
Outside of a few spragless TAs that Hy-Capacity had about 30 years ago, on ALL TAs the low side is driven by a mechanical clutch of some type, either a sprag, ramp and rollers, or a mechanical diode. If any of these TAs slip on the low side there is no adjustment that is going to correct the problem.

The spragless TA used the same clutch pack for both the high side and low side clutches. The control valve spool was reworked to allow for faster shifting between high and low range but there were not very successful because of the loss of power to the wheels when the shift was happening. It made for rather harsh shifts. The same principle was used in the 50 series tractors. It was much more successful in those because the shifting is computer controlled. The first clutch pack is not released until the next is starting to engage. That eliminates the loss of power to the wheels during shifting.
 
is hitting the floor board when you let out off it & there is no free travel what so ever. With the low side possible out on the T/A, is that why it is hitting then? That's why I thought the clutch may not engaging completely because the pedal is hitting the floor. Dan
 
(quoted from post at 04:38:36 04/07/10) is hitting the floor board when you let out off it & there is no free travel what so ever. With the low side possible out on the T/A, is that why it is hitting then? That's why I thought the clutch may not engaging completely because the pedal is hitting the floor. Dan
Click to expand...

Dan, you said the TA is holding in direct (lever forward). That means the main engine clutch, while it definitely needs adjustment, is okay.

The clutch linkage on these hydraulic TA tractors only trips a dump valve which allows you to shift, IIRC. If the clutch linkage is so far out of adjustment that that dump valve isn't closing, the tractor won't go at all as I understand it.

It's not like the mechanical TA where the clutch and TA linkages are intertwined, and having one out of adjustment will either wear out the TA or make it impossible to shift.
 
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