My bucket lift was weak(lifted about 200 pounds), the bucket tilt and rear lift is strong. I changed 7 gallons of oil, new filter and raised the bucket as high as it would go to bleed it 20 times. After that is is even weaker, it will barely lift its self. I am thinking blockage in the front lift control/hoses or some kind of pass through of oil in the front lift cylinders(very light weepage/seepage). Any help would be appreciated.
- Thread starter Johneich
- Start date
Janicholson
Well-known Member
several possible realities:
restricted pump intake
Bypassing pump (worn out)
Internal hose failure (flap of rubber blocking hose inside)
Pressure regulator stuck open
Quick disconnect coupling not seated, or not the correct male end
Valve or link to valve worn not moving the spool far enough
A flow rater will tell the story! Jim
restricted pump intake
Bypassing pump (worn out)
Internal hose failure (flap of rubber blocking hose inside)
Pressure regulator stuck open
Quick disconnect coupling not seated, or not the correct male end
Valve or link to valve worn not moving the spool far enough
A flow rater will tell the story! Jim
Owen Aaland
Well-known Member
Does your loader have double acting cylinders? If it does you may have a cylinders that is bypassing oil past the piston in a cylinder.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
Owem has a point, does the loader drop to the ground when the lever is relesed? Jim
Hi all, thanks, Jim, what is a flow rater? a 3000psi gauge with a shutoff valve after it? installed at the pump output, its a big hose/fitting for it to fit onto. Can they be bought, might be kind of hard to make. Owen, Its a double, an IH-Wagner 110 I think, Jim, yes slowly with the lever in a neutral position, a bit faster with the lever in a down position.
I am really looking for what I should do first, 2nd, 3rd.
I am really looking for what I should do first, 2nd, 3rd.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
If it lowers by itself, it needs one more test.
(if it has couplers on the lift hydraulics, put it on a floor jack raisd as high as the jack will go. Let it down so no pressure is on the hydraulics. Disconnect the cylinders from the tractor (couplings or threads) and plug the cylinder hoses, or no issue if self sealing couplers.
Let the jack down fast. If the bucket follows the jack down and continues till it hits the floor, the pistons in the cylinders are bypassing, and need to be serviced.
If it sags then stays put, the leak is internal to the valving and those need service.
Jim
(if it has couplers on the lift hydraulics, put it on a floor jack raisd as high as the jack will go. Let it down so no pressure is on the hydraulics. Disconnect the cylinders from the tractor (couplings or threads) and plug the cylinder hoses, or no issue if self sealing couplers.
Let the jack down fast. If the bucket follows the jack down and continues till it hits the floor, the pistons in the cylinders are bypassing, and need to be serviced.
If it sags then stays put, the leak is internal to the valving and those need service.
Jim
You would probably have to go to a dealer to find a flow rater. All the couplings, valve, and guage can cost some bucks just to do a pressure test. If the rest works, I'd look to the piston in the valve sticking, a cylinder piston leaking by, or a problem with a hose/fitting.
As I recall, the valve setups on some have a pressure relief valve in them that could be plugged and leaking by. Look for any hex head cap that looks like a bolt head on the valve assembly. Most likely a spring and ball or one piece relief valve. IH is good for putting them on every single thing. Those assemblies with 3 valves together would probably have one for each valve with an internal passage to the return.
As I recall, the valve setups on some have a pressure relief valve in them that could be plugged and leaking by. Look for any hex head cap that looks like a bolt head on the valve assembly. Most likely a spring and ball or one piece relief valve. IH is good for putting them on every single thing. Those assemblies with 3 valves together would probably have one for each valve with an internal passage to the return.
Not sure, but I know that I cannot get the loader to full height unless I have a full sump. My 340 has power steering which may account for the extra oil need. The extension I was referring to raises the oil level about 2". When I do a filter change it takes about 12 gallons to top it off. I have no idea if this is the way it's supposed to work, but that's how it was when I got it.
Also, make sure you have the selectors on the valves set to either single or double acting (depending on your cylinder type). The clip that holds the selector in place on my bucket valve is gone, so it moves on me and causes the bucket to stop working until I move it back. Guess I should fix that someday...
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