49 Cub Timein'

Been a while since I posted on here....recently picked up a 1949 Cub , needed points , dist. cap had #1 plug wire startin" in the wrong hole , I,ve never had a problem timein" any engine but this one is beatin" Me....With an overhead valve engine I line up the timein" marks on the crankshaft pully , pull a valve cover to be sure the rocker arms are loose and go from there. As Yaw"ll know the Cub don"t have overhead valves , I pulled the side cover thinkin" the lifters would be loose when # 1 is up and ready to fire but I haven"t found a place yet where both are loose when the crankshaft lines up with the marker so I guess the valves need adjustin"....that idea ain"t workin....Tried lookin" in the spark plug hole to see if the valves are shut , can"t really tell....So I"m tryin" to get around pullin" the timein" gear cover , is there an easier way to get things straightened out....I"d know for sure if I could see the crank gear and cam gear markin"s...I"ve tried (several times ) holdin" My thumb over the #1 spark plug hole but I"m sure missin" out somewhere....anybody got any ideas ?
Thanks
Wild Bill
 
IT IH Manual # 8
a13222.jpg
 
You need to remove No1 plug near the radiator and hold your thumb over the plug hole while someone hand cranks the engine until you feel pressure against your thumb. Once you feel that pressure keep your thumb over the hole and have someone keep cranking the engine slowly until the pressure stops. Your engine should now be at TDC on the compression stroke. and your timing marks should be aligned and both valves on that cylinder should be closed.

Once you're at TDC remove the distributor cap and see where your rotor is pointing. It should be at the No1 plug tower on your cap. If it is off a lot you need to remove the distributor and rotate the rotor so it points to No1.

If you didn't pull the distributor on this tractor since you've had it move the plug wires
on the cap and place No1 plug wire where the rotor is pointing, then going clockwise install
No3 on the cap and to No3 plug. Then install No4 plug wire to No4 plug and then No2.

Firing order on your cap should look like this:

2-1
4-3 As the rotor rotates CW. Hal
 
No crank with this one , thinkin' about firein' up the forge and makein' one. I've got several farmall books , timein' is covered in them , basicly get#1 up , ready to fire , put in distb. , be sure rotor points at right hole , turn distb. to engine , turn engine over 2 times , turn distb. CW untill You hear the impulse... I got that , have done it many times on As , Super As , Lincoln 200 weldin' machines , Model A Fords so on so forth.....This one is beatin' Me...
Thanks
Wild Bill
 
The pointer and timing make on the pulley indicate either TDC #1 cylinder or TDC #4 cylinder.

Using you method. If both valve tappet/valves on cylinder #1 are tight when the pointer indicates TDC, rotate the crankshaft 1 more full turn until the pulley mark and pointer line up.
 
Yes Sir, I've got fire.....Thanks Gene , I'm gonna pull the side plate and go over everything again...No doubt I'll get it , sometime You come across one that will give You "HELL"...Often It is something I'm missin' or overlookin'

Thanks
Wild Bill
 
If the Cub crank pulley has two notches, the second one is TDC. The first notch is 16 deg BTC for checking distributor advance. The early Cubs with magneto may have just one notch.
 
If you have fire you need to check to see if the distributor or mag is in time with No1 piston by removing No1 sparkplug and bring that piston to TDC on the compression stroke. Then see where your rotor is pointing. If its at the the No1 plug tower your distributor or mag is in time.

Hold your hand over the throat of the carburetor and have someone make an attempt to start the engine. If there's very little suction means your intake manifold vacuum is low. Good manifold vacuum is required to suck that fuel into the engine. Low vacuum could be
caused by worn cylinders, rings stuck or valves not seating. Could be a leaky intake manifold. Hal
 

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