McCormick-Deering 22-36 Start Up

Well, after 3 months of working on the head, the manifold, the carburetor, etc., I tried for a start up last Monday and it fired off.
Used the priming cups on top of the head to inject fuel right into the combustion chambers and it popped. Then, after a few more quarter turn cranks, it fired off and continued to run.
Never found the timing marks on the flywheel, so I used this method: Got #1 on the combustion stroke, then placed a metal rod on top of the piston and jockeyed the bar up and down with the belt pulley to find very close to T.D.C. that way. Then, I placed a reference paint mark on the flywheel, through the 1 1/4 inch round hole on the bell housing, uncovered by removing a 2 inch by 3 inch oval plate. We timed the mag to have the spark retarded. Anyway, no kickback issues, yet at least. It ran good for about 2 to 3 minutes, then choked itself off.
Did that again yesterday, and after it ran a similar amount of time, it quit, issuing forth quite a bit of black smoke. Appears to have been rich, with the carb leaking gas.
Same thing again today.
I rebuilt the carb with new choke shaft, new throttle shaft, new needle and seat, but used the old cork float. May be a float issue.
I tried to solder a cracked brass float from my other carb, but I don't think it worked. Ordered a new brass float for about 17 bucks.
At least I know it runs. Don't know anything about compression and a couple of the sleeves have some fairly serious pits, but it runs.
The clutch is frozen to the flywheel. I understand I may be able to work on it without removing the engine, but if I have to resurface the face of the flywheel, I would guess I will have to pull the engine.
Last September through December, I tore apart another 22-36 completely and think I will sandblast the empty main frame, paint and start rebuilding it with mostly its own parts, but with this engine that runs. The original tractor is a family relic from an Idaho farm and the running engine tractor came to me through eBay from Kansas.
The engine on the Idaho tractor is stuck, has very bad rusting of the sleeves and a very poor head with no usable parts, save for maybe some of the guides.
So, at least I have a start on the project.
Thanks to all who have posted for me along the way with my questions.
Tom

Congratulations!

When I'm having trouble getting one to start I sometimes have to remind myself it was running really good the day it was delivered to the first owner.

You can do a lot to a flywheel with sandpaper without removing it.

Those cork floats aren't too reliable when they gas soaked. Your new float should fix that.

We had 2 or 3 Ford Pintos back in 1970's. All of them bought used with low miles. Never had any problems with them. Had to install a new timing belt on one of them, but it was getting a lot of miles on it. I had one that would start fine when cold unless you ran it a mile or two and shutoff the engine it wouldn't start. I knew it was flooded, but it would start. I called our local Ford garage and the parts man said its your float. He said Ford knew about the problem and did nothing. I bought a new float & top carb gasket. That fixed the stalling. The float was made from some composite material. Hal