Farmall H brake Drums

I have a 1940 H, just pulled covers off the brake drums. One band gone, other looks to have brake lining there, but both are covered in oil.

These are to be dry, correct? I can not find any info on seals of any kind. I am getting ready to order new brake bands, but I dont want them to just get soaked and not work.

Any advice to shed some light on this would be helpful.

thanks

The seals are behind the brake drums covered in crud. They literally have to be dug out. Clean the areas up, drill a hole in the seal housing, insert a screw and try to pull them out. The screw will likely come out. So carefully begin digging them out. Without the proper tools there is no other way. Install new seals with the lip toward the oil. One on each side is probably enough, some install 2 with grease between them, but I doubt if the outside one lasts long.

CNKS is right.

DON'T try to remove the seal/bearing retainer without going into the rear end and dropping the bull gear. You will break it.

Also If one is badly gone and the other is very oily, I would just replace both altogether. Otherwise you best method for the oil soaked one is to use a toarch to dry the pads. Also I usually shine up the drums with some sandpaper or steel wool.

-Cole

Thanks,

Where do you guys buy replacement seals, I can not find them on this site.

If I can salvage one, I guess, NAPA?

DON'T try to remove the seal/bearing retainer without going into the rear end and dropping the bull gear. You will break it.

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I dont want to rip the whole gear box appart. I like the idea of trying to dig them out first, if that doesnt work then, plan B. But it sounds like I need more info on this Bull gear you speak of.

I bought an owners manual, but man, back in 1940, those engineers did not put much info in there books.

I get my seals through my local auto parts store. It tends to be cheaper, which is nice. The seal you are looking for is # 48498D. Your local auto parts store can cross reference it for you. Best of luck.
-Cole

I get my seals through my local auto parts store. It tends to be cheaper, which is nice. The seal you are looking for is # 48498D. Your local auto parts store can cross reference it for you. Best of luck.
-Cole

I get my seals through my local auto parts store. It tends to be cheaper, which is nice. The seal you are looking for is # 48498D. Your local auto parts store can cross reference it for you. Best of luck.
-Cole

I get my seals through my local auto parts store. It tends to be cheaper, which is nice. The seal you are looking for is # 48498D. Your local auto parts store can cross reference it for you. Best of luck.
-Cole

Do a parts search on www.caseih.com, have a bearing/seal place, or NAPA cross the number. You do NOT need to know about the cage or bull gears at this time. You do not need to do anything but pull the seal clean everything up and replace/adjust the linings. The operator's manual is not intended to include parts removal and replacement, only basic maintenance procedures. For other things you need parts and service manuals -- from www.external_link. None of their books will tell you how to replace seals and bearings as they assume you already know that.

Band brake tips-H & M
Remove the pins holding the brake adjuster to the pedal & actuating lever. Loosen & lube them.
Remove the cap screws holding the brake cover; wiggle it & they should come off.
Note or draw a diagram of how the brake band is attached to the cam. Turn the cover over, shake, tap or whatever to get the 2 pins out. If you remove the outer lever & half-moon key the whole thing comes out.
Replace the band & be sure the brake cam pivot shaft works freely in the cover. Oil or grease the pivot the area well and let the excess drip off before installing the new bands.
Remove the brake drum; do not try to remove the bolted-on housing containing the seal. The bull gear inside the transmission has to be removed first to get the housing out.
Using punches, chisels, etc. collapse the old seal inward, if original; it is difficult but will succumb to persistent efforts. Replace with 2 seals per side and place some chassis grease in-between them to protect the outer one from drying out. Polish the sealing surface on the brake drum and re-assemble.
Place a small amount of grease in the hole where the brake pivot goes into the transmission housing. After installing the bands & getting the pedal free-play to about 1", apply the brakes firmly, lock them in place and adjust the set-screw on the bottom side of the cover. (helps to loosen any adjustable parts BEFORE re-assembly) Loosen the jam nut, turn the set-screw in until it touches the brake band, back out 1/2 turn & lock the jam nut. This helps prevent the brake band from dragging, premature wear, and overheating.

You can removing the seal, but do not remove the 5 bolt plate that is behind the brake drum. The seals can be pulled out and new replacements are 1/2 the old ones. I but two in when I do it, but that is me, some guys just do one seal. just did this last week, and blasted drum, cover and replaced all seals and gaskets in the rear end of an H. Over $250 but there will be no leaks!

If you grab the brake drum and can move it up and down significantly, you should look at the bearings. With the seals out, look in the gap and you can see if all the balls are in the bearing.

Greg

Thanks again for all the info everyone!

I did a little searching on caseih.com part search. ran out of time. Not worried with all the info I have from you guys. NAPA is a block away and they have never let me down with finding stuff for this old tractor.

Brakes will be here in 2 days, better get busy getting seals done.

Those seals come out easy.

Get a dry wall screw, kinda long and skinny. Any similar screw will do.

Punch a small hole in the seal metal with a small nail or whatever. You are making a starter hole for the screw.

Run the screw into the hole maybe 3/8 inch, enough to get some good thread bite.

Set up a claw hammer on the screw head just like you are pulling a nail. Pop it right out.

On some seals ya gotta do a screw on opposite sides, but these usually don't need it.

(quoted from post at 18:17:28 03/28/10) You can removing the seal, but do not remove the 5 bolt plate that is behind the brake drum. The seals can be pulled out and new replacements are 1/2 the old ones. I but two in when I do it, but that is me, some guys just do one seal. just did this last week, and blasted drum, cover and replaced all seals and gaskets in the rear end of an H. Over $250 but there will be no leaks!

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Mine cost me $1300 when I did mine... I bought a lot of stuff from Case, but that doesn't explain that big of a difference. That price does include both inner axle bearings and 4/5th gear and some other stuff in there.

(quoted from post at 05:57:27 03/29/10) If you grab the brake drum and can move it up and down significantly, you should look at the bearings. With the seals out, look in the gap and you can see if all the balls are in the bearing.

Greg

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I have not got the Drums off yet, but I can get them to move up/down approx .05"
Just wondering what you consider "significant movement" would actually be.

I am thinking that I will just replace seals for now, only drive tractor 2 time during the season, someday complete tear down of rear end for bearing and seal replacement will happen. Just not right now.

(quoted from post at 17:24:15 03/28/10) I get my seals through my local auto parts store. It tends to be cheaper, which is nice. The seal you are looking for is # 48498D. Your local auto parts store can cross reference it for you. Best of luck.
-Cole

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Well, NAPA could not cross ref. # 48498D, even took in old seal I removed. They had to match by size (3.500 OD x 2.310 shaft/seal diameter)
There part # 23244

I went to Case IH, they could cross ref old number, new seal # CAS 76510C91

thanks again for help