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How much paint do I need to paint a Farmall super C

A

Agricon

Member
I found out that the local Case IH dealers is having a farmall parts and paint sale this coming week.

I am still another 4-6 weeks away from painting but I thought it would be a good idea to buy it now for 35% off.

So how much Red 2150 Paint do I need
how much ALUMINUM paint do I need
and how much primmer do I need

Remember it is my first real time painting a tractor so I might need a little extra.
 
HOLY COW! I am stocking up on summer project parts next week and my dealer is only 10% off. (Triebold Implement in Whitewater, WI GREAT dealer!!!)

I would buy a gallon of "Argent" paint. This is the silver/aluminum I think you are referring to. I used a pint when I did my rear rims and wished I had more.

As for primer and paint I will leave it up to somebody else. I haven't gotten that far on a tractor yet. I keep falling in love with all of mine and never get around to painting one. Too many leaks to fix on them before they can get painted :D
 
I did a similar sized Case and bought a gallon each of primer and paint with a quart of "Argent" for the rims. Only had a little left over and saved it in pint tins for touch up and other projects.
 
A C was the first tractor I painted, it took about 5 quarts, I painted everything separately. A gallon of primer will do. I used epoxy primer over everything, and about a quart of sandable surfacer over the epoxy on the sheet metal Hardener was mentioned below. It contains isocyantes which can make you very sick, requiring a supplied air breathing system. I wouldn't use aluminum, because the rims were originally galvanized and dull. The CaseIH argent is probably ok. I use a GM rally wheel color. A quart or less is enough. Take some time and read all you can stand in the Paint and Bodywork forum, this site. A lot of opinions, you will learn a lot.
 

So if painting outdoors and because of safety reasons can I skip the hardener or will a good filter type mask do if I use hardener.
 
(quoted from post at 20:57:22 03/06/10)
So if painting outdoors and because of safety reasons can I skip the hardener or will a good filter type mask do if I use hardener.
Click to expand...

You can't skip anything that the paint calls for. You can use a different paint (I don't remember all the names) but you can't skip one of the three elements for "real" paint.
Just go to NAPA and get a decent cartridge respirator and you will be set. They are about $20.
 
Cartridge respirators do not filter out the isocyanates in hardener -- that requires a supplied air system. People do it all the time, but repeated or sometimes only one use of iso's with a cartridge(contains charcoal) mask can cause a severe emphysema type reaction. Do a Google search for Isocyanates. Acrylic enamel and alkyd enamel can be used without hardener. Urethanes, and certain DuPont "acrylic enamels" must have hardeners to cure. You are correct about following the instructions -- exactly.
 
Lastly, does the spray can version of the Case IH paints produce the same finish as normal paint with hardener does?
 
(quoted from post at 17:52:28 03/07/10) Lastly, does the spray can version of the Case IH paints produce the same finish as normal paint with hardener does?
Click to expand...

NO! It [u:ef70e19771]should[/u:ef70e19771] produce the same color, but it is will not "lay down" as thick as "real" paint. My NAPA man sold paint for Martin-Seynor before buying his NAPA's and he has a little example body panel painted with real paint and rattle cans. You can barely scratch the real paint and the rattle can will scratch right off. He said it has to do with how many mils thick the paint is using each method and how they dry.

With all that said, if you are just going to rattle can little parts before assembly and use real paint on the majority of the machine you will be set.[/u]
 
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