light rust in gas tank of H

Anonymous-0 · Mar 4, 2010

I could sure use some help. I have light rust in the gas tank of my H. The rust is mostly on the roof of the tank, and rust keeps dropping down into the gas. It isn't heavy rust -- just enough to cause problems once in a while. I'm going to take the tank off to clean it, but what should I pour into the tank to help get rid of that light rust? I've been told to put washers and bolts in the tank and roll them around with kerosene. Does anyone know anything that will work better to loosen the rust? Thanks for your help.

primerk5 · Mar 4, 2010

I think what you've been told is a good Idea. I've heard of people who used gravel and then wash it out really well. I can't remember who I heard that had done that and I can't remember what we did to my H. But you should buy the gas tank coating and slosh that around afterwords to help prevent any more rust occuring.

sflem849 · Mar 4, 2010

I always say to use washers and nuts vs rocks (aka big dirt) I would use the coating as well. There was a big debate on the necessity of the coating last week on the fourm. My opinion is to use it due to low fuel use and low fuel levels commonly found with collector tractors.
I hate carb/fuel problems and I would pay the extra $20 to avoid them.

MisterT · Mar 4, 2010

(quoted from post at 15:47:22 03/04/10) I could sure use some help. I have light rust in the gas tank of my H. The rust is mostly on the roof of the tank, and rust keeps dropping down into the gas. It isn't heavy rust -- just enough to cause problems once in a while. I'm going to take the tank off to clean it, but what should I pour into the tank to help get rid of that light rust? I've been told to put washers and bolts in the tank and roll them around with kerosene. Does anyone know anything that will work better to loosen the rust? Thanks for your help.

Those washers and bolts will get lodged behind and under the baffle, and you will never get them out. If the rust is only light, just start using the tractor and clean the sediment bowl on a regular basis. Eventually you will have no more trouble.

sflem849 · Mar 4, 2010

Those washers and bolts will get lodged behind and under the baffle, and you will never get them out. If the rust is only light, just start using the tractor and clean the sediment bowl on a regular basis. Eventually you will have no more trouble.

I use pretty big nuts 1/2ish. They have a tough time getting stuck. My other theory is you could leave them in and they still will never clog your pickup/carb.

Anonymous-0 · Mar 4, 2010

I want to thank everyone for the comments. Because of the comments, I'll try *large* nuts and bolts -- and then use the sealer. I'll post after I'm done with this and let everyone know how it went. Thanks again. Jeff

GordoSD · Mar 4, 2010

I'm strongly opposed to the sealer. If it starts breaking down you have a REAL MESS.
AT least just clean it up as best you can or take it to a motorcycle shop. They deal with hundreds of rusty tanks.
Then drop the sediment bowl and put a one inch tube extension in it, so you never suck fuel from the very bottom.
Then run it for six months, cleaning the bowl and carb filter as required and then decide if you want the liner.

Gordo

thumbanger · Mar 4, 2010

You can take screen wire piece about 3 inch x 4 inch roll it up to where you can slide it into sediment bowl opening in tank take bowl unit out of tank and put in opening. Once in roll top of screen up you have fool profe system. I Have done on 3 tractors with great results.

Brian Schmidt · Mar 4, 2010

Forget anything loose in there. You get it behind the baffle and you are in trouble. You don't get it behind the baffle and you won't get that part clean.

Go buy a gallon of muriatic acid. Plug off the drain hole and put some duct tape over the vent hole in the cap. Roll the tank all around to coat all the surfaces. Let it soak for several hours upside down. Flush with plenty water and some gas to get the water out. Finished. If you want to make the acid go farther, you can cut it with water 50/50.

bc · Mar 4, 2010

What Gordo and Brian said. Then get a gallon of Behr concrete etcher from home cheapo which has the highest concentration of phosphoric acid you can find. Coat all sides, bottom, and top for a while until all the deep and flash rusting is gone. Phosphoric acid reacts with the metal and leaves a tarnish that resists rusting. If you don't have deep pitted rust, you can avoid the muratic acid step.

Then keep your tank full to the top in the winter so water can't condense at the top of the tank and drip into the gas. The air between the gas and the top of the tank cooling down to the dew point causes water condensation at the top of your tranny and rear end as well which is why you get water in the fluid. The problem isn't so bad in the summer.

light rust in gas tank of H

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member

primerk5

Member

sflem849

Well-known Member

MisterT

Member

sflem849

Well-known Member

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member

GordoSD

Well-known Member

thumbanger

Member

Brian Schmidt

Member

bc

Well-known Member

Similar threads