removing bull pinion shafts and retainers

need to replace the oil seals on my 47 h how do i remove the pinion shafts and retainers to replace the oil seals?

If you're taking care of oil leaking at the brake bands, you don't need to pull the bull pinion shaft out. Just take the brake cover and drum off, and then pluck out the old seal. If it's the original seal it will be 2 leather seals in a tin sleeve that holds both of them. Pluck that out also. If you need to pull the bull pinion shafts and differentail carrier out for some other reason, you MUST remove the PTO and take the bolt off the bull gear on the inside end of the axil by reaching in the PTO hole. Then pull the axil housing out and slide the bull gear back to remove the differentail carrier. If you try to pull the differential carrier out by just removing the bolts around the bull pinion seal you will break the carrier.

That is exactly what I said last time this question was around.

There's a whole huge thread on this from about 2 days ago. It should be on page 4 or 5, easily found with a search. If you'd like more info/discussion on this, I'd suggest you give that a look-see.

Band brake tips-H & M
Remove the pins holding the brake adjuster to the pedal & actuating lever. Loosen & lube them.
Remove the cap screws holding the brake cover; wiggle it & they should come off.
Note or draw a diagram of how the brake band is attached to the cam. Turn the cover over, shake, tap or whatever to get the 2 pins out. If you remove the outer lever & half-moon key the whole thing comes out.
Replace the band & be sure the brake cam pivot shaft works freely in the cover. Oil or grease the pivot the area well and let the excess drip off before installing the new bands.
Remove the brake drum; do not try to remove the bolted-on housing containing the seal. The bull gear inside the transmission has to be removed first to get the housing out.
Using punches, chisels, etc. collapse the old seal inward, if original; it is difficult but will succumb to persistent efforts. Replace with 2 seals per side and place some chassis grease in-between them to protect the outer one from drying out. Polish the sealing surface on the brake drum and re-assemble.
Place a small amount of grease in the hole where the brake pivot goes into the transmission housing. After installing the bands & getting the pedal free-play to about 1", apply the brakes firmly, lock them in place and adjust the set-screw on the bottom side of the cover. (helps to loosen any adjustable parts BEFORE re-assembly) Loosen the jam nut, turn the set-screw in until it touches the brake band, back out 1/2 turn & lock the jam nut. This helps prevent the brake band from dragging, premature wear, and overheating.

...if original; it is difficult but will succumb to persistent efforts. Replace with 2 seals per side and place some chassis grease in-between them to protect the outer one from drying out...

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That is my favorite line of the entire quote! Once you do this you will know how true it is!!!

I like the idea of grease in between. I never thought of that. The outer seal can and will score the shaft if it runs dry...Now I just wonder how I am going to get grease in mine! BTW I put one on the right way and one on the wrong way bc they are not double lipped seals.

thanks guys for the info thats a big help!

(quoted from post at 21:13:22 02/27/10) thanks guys for the info thats a big help!

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Did you find that other thread? I didn't look at the name and figured it was the same guy who never went back and read all his replys
How is the MD running? I got all four injectors out with no problems, but the injector holder deallys are being REALLY stubborn.