MD Nozzle Body Retainer Removal

sflem849 · Feb 23, 2010

Is there a way to overcome the "loose slip fit" of the nozzle body retainer? It seems 60+ years has turned a slip fit into a pretty tight squeeze.
I tried moderate pressure with the pry bar and it didn't budge. I don't really want to break anything so I quit.
Any suggestions?

D Slater · Feb 23, 2010

IH had a special puller, some come out hard. Not saying this is the best way but the way I remove the hard ones is, with a small 5/8 or 3/4 thick flat plate with slots made on each side to fit the bolt spacing of the nozzle fitting for the fuel line. Weld a long 1/2 inch rod in the center of plate. Used heavy wall pipe doubled 2 sizes togeather for a slider. welded a heavy cap on the other end.
When removing one with the above I clean outside injector and all around it. Then remove the nozzle fitting, then pack a small piece of paper towel in the hole under fitting. Use the two 3/8 bolt holes that retained fitting to bolt plate down flat on body, then go to slide hammering. Some will come out in 1 or 2 hits. Some will wear your arms out.

the tractor vet · Feb 23, 2010

Yea they can be pretty stubborn a really good penetrating fluid and some light tapping and a pair of injector pullers work well for me. Myself i like the Zep brand of penetrating fluid hands down . Been using it for the last 42 years and nothing has come close to what it will loosen .

sflem849 · Feb 24, 2010

Can you remove the nozzle body itself and then thread bolts through the tapped holes and push up off the head? It seems like you could damage a really expensive head, but maybe they aren't in there that hard.

M Diesel · Feb 24, 2010

Don't forget to use a pressure washer first. It works in there and gets a lot of the crud out and they often pop right out afterward. Plan on a few minutes per hole.

sflem849 · Feb 25, 2010

No luck yet, but I didn't try much. I will be building a puller at lunch.

They had been soaking in JB-80 since Saturday. I really should have cleaned it, but I hate washing in winter w/o a heated shop to go in when you are done.

I am all nervous that I will spend $100+ per hole and still not fix my dilution problem. What the heck, it is only money.

M Diesel · Feb 25, 2010

(quoted from post at 09:07:33 02/25/10) No luck yet, but I didn't try much. I will be building a puller at lunch.

They had been soaking in JB-80 since Saturday. I really should have cleaned it, but I hate washing in winter w/o a heated shop to go in when you are done.

I am all nervous that I will spend $100+ per hole and still not fix my dilution problem. What the heck, it is only money.

Yeah that open air garage, I feel your pain :lol: Soaking isn't as effective as the pressure washer. Putting the head on saw horse and working it from both sides makes them loosen up pretty well. If you are not pulling the head, then (for the most part) you only need to pull the injectors, not the cups. Those normally come out pretty decent with some twist action to loosen them. None of my engines had ever sat outside with no hood though, so they weren't all that bad to begin with. A bad injector is usually pretty noticeable, and you can observe it yourself before committing to dollars. I know, it's a bad time of year, but a bad one will feel different at the line next to the injector. It will warm slower and the pulses will feel softer. Also loosen the vents and pay attention to the engine. A squirter is easily spotted unless all are equally funky. Late timing can also lead to oil dilution. Is it wet stacking?

sflem849 · Feb 25, 2010

(quoted from post at 15:51:13 02/25/10)

(quoted from post at 09:07:33 02/25/10) No luck yet, but I didn't try much. I will be building a puller at lunch.

They had been soaking in JB-80 since Saturday. I really should have cleaned it, but I hate washing in winter w/o a heated shop to go in when you are done.

I am all nervous that I will spend $100+ per hole and still not fix my dilution problem. What the heck, it is only money.

Click to expand...

Yeah that open air garage, I feel your pain :lol: Soaking isn't as effective as the pressure washer. Putting the head on saw horse and working it from both sides makes them loosen up pretty well. If you are not pulling the head, then (for the most part) you only need to pull the injectors, not the cups. Those normally come out pretty decent with some twist action to loosen them. None of my engines had ever sat outside with no hood though, so they weren't all that bad to begin with. A bad injector is usually pretty noticeable, and you can observe it yourself before committing to dollars. I know, it's a bad time of year, but a bad one will feel different at the line next to the injector. It will warm slower and the pulses will feel softer. Also loosen the vents and pay attention to the engine. A squirter is easily spotted unless all are equally funky. Late timing can also lead to oil dilution. Is it wet stacking?

I spent about 30 min with my tool on the two problem injectors and didn't get the NBRs out, but I did get one injector out. It came out pretty easy with a jar from the puller.

I never checked warmth, but I did notice BAD pulses from 2 and 3 (Where is one? Front IIRC) When you crack the bleeders they sputter fuel out and 1 and 4 you can see a rythmic pulse. I never heard a change in engine performance when cracking injector bleeders.
Hopefully timing isn't a problem, but I doubt it has been timed in a long time. Wet stacking doesn't seem extreme, but is certainly present. ie waiting in line to tractor pull or waiting for a full chopper box when the haylage stinks.

M Diesel · Feb 25, 2010

(quoted from post at 17:25:35 02/25/10)
I spent about 30 min with my tool on the two problem injectors and didn't get the NBRs out, but I did get one injector out. It came out pretty easy with a jar from the puller.

I never checked warmth, but I did notice BAD pulses from 2 and 3 (Where is one? Front IIRC) When you crack the bleeders they sputter fuel out and 1 and 4 you can see a rythmic pulse. I never heard a change in engine performance when cracking injector bleeders.
Hopefully timing isn't a problem, but I doubt it has been timed in a long time. Wet stacking doesn't seem extreme, but is certainly present. ie waiting in line to tractor pull or waiting for a full chopper box when the haylage stinks.

Yeah, front is one. It certainly should not be oiling the pipe like that. A common timing procedure is to advance until exhaust clears up (in the high rpms), then back off slightly.

It almost seems like it has troubles in the distributor valves, but that will usually affect all. I would pull injector #2 and #3 apart and inspect for dirt/damage. Easy to do. Pay attention to the disc filter and what may be in it, and the valve. A dribbler (common problem) can cause a lot of bad effects.

Another point of timing. Load affects it, as the plunger is driven by a cam. The more load, the more lead (and lag) you end up with, with the inherent effects that accompany. Mostly this mean low loads don't burn as well.

MD Nozzle Body Retainer Removal

sflem849

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D Slater

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the tractor vet

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sflem849

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M Diesel

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sflem849

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M Diesel

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sflem849

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M Diesel

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