About the only time I get stuck with my 300U pushing snow is when I am backing out of a push on frozen ground. I just can’t get any traction and just set there spinning.
I used to leave the power up and try to rock or power my way out. That doesn’t work on frozen ground so I would have to throw chains under each wheel and eventually would get enough traction to back out. I also used boards, carpets, old tires, whatever worked to throw under the tires.

I discovered something recently that some already know and maybe some don’t.

I reduced the power to idle and let the tires spin slowly while alternating applying left brake and then the right. The tractor would slide sideways towards the tire that was braked. I was slowly rocking the tractor from side to side until it found some traction and back out on its own.
It has worked every time so far.
The trick is to reduce the power to idle so the tires have time to find some traction.

Anyone else have any snow plowing tips to share.
Dell

More weight and CHAINS or put all the toys in the shed and head for a warmer climate and come back when the birds do in the spring . The older i get the less i like going out and playing in it as everything is a hassle , Nothing wants to start up easy ya get cold fast things break easier , and when ya think your done here comes the next storm so you can do it all over . And by mid Feb ya got cabin fever so bad that anything to get you out is welcome .

I don't understand plowing snow without chains on all the time.


Ag tires aren't much good on snow and ice, and turf tires may as well be drag slicks.


Like TV said, chains & weight are the ticket.

I plow gravel drive using a 2inch piece of pipe welded onto the bottom edge so I don't dig into my lawn. I have two wheel weights on each rim and two fastened to my fasthitch.
I have used ag tires in deep snow for many years without chains. The only time I have ever been stuck is on bare frozen ground.
I have heard several comments that chains are of no use on frozen ground but I have never used them.
And the only time I loose traction on bare ground is when the front is lower than the rear backing up slight incline.
Dell

I prefer a bucket. I can pile the snow as high as I want and I never get stuck because I can curl the bucket under, put it on the ground and push myself out.

In a pinch oil dry works wonders for traction on ice.

I had a 4wd MF 253 diesel, 8 ft blade, tires loaded to the max, cross pattern chains, and I still got tired of the snow in N. Idaho.. I took care of the snow problem by moving. I now live near Austin, Texas.

for the winter months it's best to just leave chains on and use weight.

I put my 200 away for the winter. Sometimes I pile snow with our Fsrmtrac 4x4. I got stuck yesterday and 2 tires were on cleared ground I slid sideways down a slight incline and like above the front was lower than the rear. The tires would just spin and I would slide sideways even more. It has a 3 pt Backhoe out back and loaded tires so lots of weight. I could not even push out with the bucket because I move out about a foot and put the brakes on and as soon as I would lift the bucket I would just slide forward (brakes were locked sliding on unmoving tires). I finally got out by lifting the front tires with the bucket and then the rear with outriggers and making a trail of firewood under each tire about 10 feet long and it backed out. I did not even bother getting the 200 out to try to pull it out as it would of just spun on the icy ground. I have almost got stuck there plenty of times, but yesterday was the day. I need to stay away from that spot.

Dell: Thanks for the useful tip. Obviously, some go out totally prepared, but I'm guilty of jumping on a tractor thinking I can get by and ending up stuck. There is not argument that fluid in the tires and chains are ideal. Recently I went out to pull in a 9N with my M (without fluid or chains) got stuck in a 3 to 4 foot drift. Had along several tow chains so wrapped them through the spokes of each wheel and around the tire and pulled right out. Later went to buy chains-none in our town, --price over $750. Hard to justify to use only a few times each year.

I think it takes a combination of several things. Weight, chains, power, and experiance. Here in South Dakota, we get lots of experiance with moderate to heavy snowfall over the course of years. The snow isn't so bad, but as many of you stated, ice just sucks. We seem to get a bit of ice each year either before the snow starts or sometime during the winter. My snow-plowing rig is a Super MTA with a Dual 325 loader with 7 foot bucket. The tractor has 15 inch tires, aggresive chains and 5 wheel weights per side. I have pushed snow on good ground with less weight and no chains with no problems. However, if there is any ice at all, chains are a must and the additional weight helps. I know that I couldn't do anything on ice without the chains. I have just spun the tires before when on ice while trying to move the tractor with the loader UP AND EMPTY. When pushing the snow I use the highest gear I can without choking off the tractor. This balance between power and speed helps alot with traction. And as mentioned already, There are still times when I have to use the bucket to push my way out of a tight spot. Personally, I like to push snow and run a loader, but I don't like to do it in sub-zero weather when the wind is blowing! My two-cents worth. Leo

Like anything else, time your purchase. Buy your tire chains at an auction sale in August. Many times they go for next-to-nothing. I have two sets, an aggresive cross-link set and a set of road chains both for 15x 38s. I paid a total of $70 for them at two different auctions durirng summer months. Leo