(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

H rear wheel centers rusted on

Z

Zachary Hoyt

Well-known Member
I am trying to remove the cast centers from the axles of an H parts tractor. The bolts are rusted in quite hard, and the castings are both rusted to the axle pretty well too it looks like. I put a 4' pipe on a 1" wrench and got one bolt loose but put a bend in the wrench trying another bolt. I've sprayed PB blaster on liberally for a few days whenever I go by, but now I am wondering if there is any way to remove these other than making friends with someone who has a torch and can heat them up. If anyone has a suggestion I would be very grateful to hear it.
Zach
 
You better find a friend with a torch. There is no better way than that to get them off. Since they are cast they will take very little heat at all, but you will need a torch.
Where are you located?
If you plan on playing with these older machines much a torch is a necessary tool. I would look into purchasing one. They aren't super cheap, but they are not outrageous expensive.
 
You do not need a real big torch to heat them up. A common propane torch will do the trick. Heat them up and when they are still pretty hot try to turn them. If they move good if not apply more heat
 
I used acetone/trans fluid mixed 50-50. Applied it multiple times and let it soak for weeks and tried a 1/2" breaker & couldn't move it. Then went to 3/4" breaker bar with 4' cheater and heat. All came loose and 1 twisted off.
 
give the bolt heads a couple good whacks with a big hammer each time you spray em. it shakes up the rust a little and lets the penetrating oil flow in a little better. if ya cant get em loose, run it by the shop here and i'll buzz em off with my impact!!
poke here
 
You can buy a small torch from Home Depot and use a small cylinder of mapp gas. That should loosen them. Hal
 
if your good with a 4# hammer take a good sharp chisel and split the sides nuts on the U bolts.
when you've cut them half way threw Thea should turn of easel once they are loos beat on the inside of the hub they should move some use lots of penetrating oil and keep up the good work with the hammer its not necessary to beat them to pieces.
 
Thank you all very much. I've found an acetylene torch setup I can use, but the gas is getting low. I've not used a torch more than two or three times before, so I'm uncertain about how to regulate the flame to get the kind of heat I want. It has one of those tips with seven holes. The guy told me he would try heating it up and then spraying penetrating oil on it and letting it cool-he said the cooling would draw the oil down into the threads. Thanks for the offer with the impact, glennster. It's about a day's drive out to you and the same amount back though, so I guess I'll try here first. I have that tank off and if you'll email me your address I'll mail it to you. I don't need it and don't have the tools or the skill to fix it, but I'd hate to scrap it.
Zach
 
where abouts you located zach? anywho regarding the torch, back the regulators out till the pressure is off the handles, all knobs on torch closed. since you are just heating and not cutting, slowly open the oxy bottle till pressure shows on the gauge, then open cylinder all the way. on the acetlyene, slowly open about 3/4 turn or so. turn pressure regulator in on acetylene till you get about 7 pounds pressure, then set the oxy at about 15 pounds. crack the acetly valve on the torch head just a little and light torch. open some to get some flame, then slowly open the oxy valve and adjust till you get a good flame with a sharp inner cone, no feathers. that will be a neutral flame. you can readjust fuel and o2 from there for more heat.
 
Thanks a lot for the detailed torch explanation. That'll get me going in the right direction and maybe I can finally get the darn things off. I'm in Orwell NY, about 40 miles north of Syracuse. The acetylene bottle is showing a little under 100 psi on the regulator, so I should have enough gas to get both wheels off, I hope. Thanks again for the help. I'll post tomorrow if I can get them off.
Zach
 
zach, the acetylene is got quite a bit of gas in it at 100 psi, usually about 250 psi full, the gas is dissolved in acetone in the cylinder with a filler material. you should have plenty. jezz ny is a little bit of a drive over!!! hold on to all the old parts!!!
 
( If anyone has a suggestion I would be very grateful to hear it.
Zach
Click to expand...

i9001.jpg


Here is another option. It is a 50 to 1 torque multiplier. It is as effective as using a fifty foot cheater bar over the 1/2" ratchet. They may be available for rent at a rental tool place.
 
I tried today to use the torch, but as soon as I turned the acetylene on the pressure in the tank dropped down to about 40. When I set the pressure to 7 it looked okay till I cracked the line to light it and then it would immediately drop to about 2. I tried using it but it just didn't seem to be getting gas. I'm guessing that the tank is too low, but I'm also wondering if it could be a regulator problem. It's been stored out in the cold all winter, so I don't know if that would affect it. I'm going to just pull the axles and see what I can do once I have them off. Thank you very much for the torch instructions. I'll save them for when I get more gas.
Zach
 
40 west of Albany we use 3/4" drive breaker bars and 4'+- of pipe; burn a couple of cylinders of soldering torches for heat. Patience, they'll come loose.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

F
Farmall 706 Steering Wheel removal
Replies
7
Views
567
BarnyardEngineering
BarnyardEngineering
Rodney51Cub
Stuck woodruff key.
Replies
15
Views
799
560Dennis
560Dennis
D
Deere 2020 rear wheel pinion bolt
Replies
4
Views
249
JIM MN
J
E
How remove stuck bolts on rear wheel in place since 1950
Replies
5
Views
881
Hemmjo
Hemmjo
C
oliver 1650 draft control plug won't come out.
Replies
1
Views
190
rrlund
R
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top