OT? PTO generator

The blizzard here in MD has got me thinking it's time for a generator. Now I need to decide what type. I figure my choices are a regular honda type generator, a lincoln welder generator or a PTO generator. Let me know your opinions on this subject. Any info about output, fuel consumption, cost, etc. I don't know much about the PTO type. It would be hooked to a F-504 gasser. Thanks for the info.

When you use a PTO generator make sure you run it at 540 rpm and use it on a tractor that doesn't vary rpm much, I learned the hard way that TV VCR etc. don't like voltage surges.

Unless you need a lot of power, (i.e. running a milking system and bulk tank cooler in a barn) you would be better off with a purpose built unit. Most 3000 to 5000 watt generators are in the 5 hp range and will run the essentials in a house. Why run a 40 Hp tractor? It will use a LOT more fuel since it won't idle down when not under load.

I had a portable welder generator set. Used it more for welding then generator. Worked ok,did not run electronics stuff. Just frig,furnace blower,some lights. Keep the house warm and the beer cold.

steveormary

I have a Generac 6500 watt, 8200 surge and it works fine for the essentials. Have it wired to back feed from the 100 amp panel in the barn to the 200amp panel in the house. Need only plug it in, fire it up and throw the switch.

My son has a Generac PTO alternator built somewhere around 1970's. Worked for a while after replacing the SCR's & a 25 amp rectifier in the control panel. Now it's up to its old problems again. Called the company to get a value for the MOV which protects the SCR's from voltage spikes, & they say to get a new alternator. They're no help at all. So----stay away from this type of unit. My $.02 worth.

I have a 5500 watt "stand alone" generator and it will run most stuff in my house. Only exception is I need to kind of watch the stove burners and microwave and limit how many I have on at one time. I have a clamp-on amp meter and I had to learn how much I could run at one time. Refer, freezer, furnace, etc., are no problem. I would not try the AC... that would be too much.
I kill the "main" to separate it from the power company and run the generator "backwards" through a 30 amp breaker to feed the house circuits. We have a gas dryer, so I can even run the washer and dryer if I watch what I'm doing.

I have a 12kw PTO generator and love it. Powers everything in the house that we need except for the secondary heating strips. We went this route to make better use of the equipment we had already (e.g. tractors) and therefore one less item to maintain (e.g. another engine, etc). We also did so because of the portability.

If you do decide to go the route of a PTO generator, it takes 2HP for each KW. So like in my case, I have my 24HP tractor running the generator and when power is being consumed well (e.g. water heater, stove, etc) she does pull a load but fortunately handles it well.

I like the PTO generator because of its size and portability. Ours is mounted on a trailer so I can use it behind any of my 3 tractors, in the field, where ever I need power that isn"t readily available. And, it's one less machine to keep up enginge wise (e.g. oil changes, etc). Plus will having multiple tractors, if one won't start for whatever reason, we have other options.

We"re considering upgrading to a larger unit so we can power the whole ranch (e.g. shop, house, etc). Probably will go with a 40kW which means she"ll either be used behind the 4010 or the 1466 depending upon which is available.

I have a 15kW continuous, 18kW surge PTO generator made by Winpower. It was purchased after an ice storm left 70% of East Texas completely crippled. The house is all electric. This machine will give me 60 amps of 240 volt single phase power. That's enough to run an air conditioner in the 100 degree heat or the water heater, or the stove...(funny how you have time to manage your breakers when the power is out). Anyway, a 200 amp transfer switch after the utility meter with an extension cord already wired in can have the lights back on in 30 minutes.

Casters were added to the frame of the generator so it can be pushed to a corner of the shop for long term storage. The power source is a (ahem) newer Japanese built 3-cyl diesel putting out around 22 hp. It will run all day on 6 gallons of fuel.

The benefits for the PTO generator on a 3-point frame are that 1) The unit is portable and can be taken anywhere the tractor goes, 2) It never has to be lifted into the back of a pickup or on to a trailer, 3) Its just one less small gas engine to have problems with.

PTO Generators are the great to have, we have one we run the essentials on the farm with. We use it on one of our 50 hp tractors it runs the milk pump and ventelation fans in the barn. The generator is a Pincor bought brand new in the 1970s if you take care of them they last forever. I think if you already have the tractor the PTO generator is the way to go. Just my 2 cents worth.

THIS IS MY TAKE ON THIS SUBJECT , (1) WHAT TYPE OF FUEL IS READILY AVAILABLE at all times at your place and with ample supply for extended use???? Nat. Gas , propane , diesel , or good gasoline ?? what are your power needs?? for everything . a little over kill is a lot better then not enough. I have thought about this for sometime now . And for me i have figured that here at the house the best for me would be a 15-17 Kw unit that runs on Nat, gas as there is always nat. gas unless we have a earthquake and lines get ripped apart. and the price of a genrac stand alone hard wired direct into the house is not that bad . and about twice the price of a PTo unit . Now if by chance that we did loose power and i had say a PTo unit the power to run it is not a issue for me as the S/MTA would run it or the 806 or even the S/H and i do not think that i would need to use the 1486. . The big issue would be the Fuel if the power went out and i had the tractor in town to run the house if i am out of power so is the gas stations and my fuel supplier . The next big issue would be the noise here in town with a tractor running all day and half way into the night . A portable one say around 5500-8500 watts would do the job but it would limit some things and you know darn good and well it would be a fight getting it running after setting for say a couple years . So my thoughts here is that a stand alone one that does a seft test say once a week for a few min. at a time would be better piece of mind plus it does it's own switching over when the grid goes down .

I like PTO generators for the simple fact that your tractor is used thoughout the year and if you take any care of it at all it will start when you need it. The stand alone generators that sit for months (years?) on end may or may not start unless you take the time to run them on a regular basis - a waste of fuel and time. The natural gas generators can handle sitting for longer periods of time without issue but they are also pretty expensive.

IH Fan's description pretty much sounds like my setup. I once had a 1.5 kW 120V unit that we limped along on, until we lost power for a couple of days and the better half (who never did care much for camping) sent me in search of something that would run the 240V water pump. I bought a 5.5 kW at Menard's.

Starting has never been a problem, but we use it each year at the 4-H fair so it does get some exercise. I don't know how long it will run on five gallons of gasoline, but if I start it before going to work there's always plenty left when I get home.

It's not a fancy system, and not automatic, but we're satisfied with it. Total cost was probably about $600.

Mark W. in MI

Thanks for all the replies. There is alot of good info here on both sides of the fence. Now I guess I need to talk it over with the boss (wife) to get her approval. Anyone have a mancard I can borrow? Thanks again!

I'm in Maryland too and the blizzards had my generator going as well.

I have a separate generator that is powered by a 10hp Briggs. I thought about getting a PTO version for my tractor but had second thoughts. Why put hours on a $10K tractor when my $850 10HP generator can power the house, use less fuel, and is almost as easy to start. And when I need power elsewhere on the farm, I just pick the generator up with my tractor's bucket and move it around.