splitting a Farmall M

Support, support support!!!
Have done H's but the M's are similar. You will be dealing with lots of heavy iron that could come crashing down if not supported correctly.
Just by looking at the tractor you can tell what needs to be removed, there is a bolt hidden behind the starter.

Lots of pics here
The Farmall H

Randy
 
Just split my M. It is not too hard.
First, I removed the muffler and hood. Second disconnected lines to oil pressure gauge,and water temp guage. Third, removed wiring going back to dash box and also removed starter. Fourth disconnected air cleaner and oil bath breather tube. In summary anything that connects between the operator platform and engine area like the fuel line and choke rod.

You also have to disconnect the steering shaft. To do this I separated the shaft into its two pieces at the U - Joint, removed the large nut at the front of the steering gear housing and then the castellated nut and cotter pin at the end of the steering shaft. The steering shaft has a worm gear at he end of it and the shaft will spin right out the back of the housing.

Now you are ready to split the tractor. I supported the rear end at the bell housing with blocks and a bottle jack. I used some scrap metal to make a splitting stand to support the front part of the tractor. I welded some casters onto my stand so the front half could be rolled away from the back half. There is a website splittingstands.com that had some photos of some splitting stands.

With both halves of the tractor supported remove four bolts along each side at the rear of the engine and two other bolts at the rear of the engine then use a pry bar to separate the two halves
a10059.jpg
 
Like the other poster said, support,support, support. Be careful it is not difficult but dangerous if one of the two halves crashes down
 
do i need to remove anything clutch related?? and do i need to drop the hydro pump?? i'm splitting it to replaced the rear seal, it leaks like crazy and i dont want it on my clutch and from what i have read you have to split it. also i guess while its split i'll put on my piston rings and gasket kit on to.
 
I was splitting my tractor to swap engines.
The clutch assembly attaches to the fly wheel and it comes right along when the tractor is split.
Now I am not a "full blood" mechanic so I may not understand your question but I do not recall having to do anything with the clutch
 
I was splitting my tractor to swap engines.
The clutch assembly attaches to the fly wheel and it comes right along when the tractor is split.
Now I am not a "full blood" mechanic so I may not understand your question but I do not recall having to do anything with the clutch
 
if you are going to re-ring it, block the back end up, drop the front steering, then take the radiator out, remove the front steering bolster and frame rails, then pull the motor. if you just split it in two pieces, its gonna be harder to handle with everything attached to the engine.
 
You do not need to split it for new rings.
But if you are leaking at the rear seal, which is common, you will need to split it.

Randy
 

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