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My H is missing and spitting I need help!

C

Chris Sokol

New User
The other day While I was driving my H moving snow it started to pop, lost power and flames shot out of the stack. I idled it down and it did idle fine. I proceeded to finish moving snow. The next couple of days it got worse. Now almost everytime I try to move it, it will pop and fire.sometimews though it will let me idle it to full but afetr several minutes it starts to pop and what sounds like miss. It idles fine and starts good. I have cleaned the sediment ball and took off the gas line at the carburateor and I have gas there. I also drained the gas tank completely added new gas and canned heat.Anyone with ideas please help.
 
Sounds like it might be a bad points and/or condenser or a cracked cap that's letting moisture get where it shouldn't be. (My $0.02 worth. jal-SD)
 

Thanks for your input I will put new points and condenser in tomm. I will also replace the distributer cap. I will also go ahead and get a new coil. Do you think it could be a stuck float in the carburetor? Could this be a fuel issue ie; either to rich or lean. It just acts like it is starving for fuel.... Thanks again for all of your help on this..Believe me I need all that I can get!
 
Thanks for your help.. It does start up and idles but when I give it any gas it spitts or more like pops rapidly and has no power. It will shoot flames out of the exhaust as well and then If I do not power it down it sputters and stalls. I then can hoke it and start it right after although it does start a little harder then but does starts. It idles fine but then again if I give it throttle it acts the same way. It acts this way cold and had done it when this first started happening when it was hot. A few days ago right before it started happening all of the time I drove it maybe 100 ft. just fine and then it started popping and stalled as well as had no power. I was right in the middle of the gravel road and worked until 1:30 am hoping a snowplow did not come before I got it out of the road. I put it in reverse and finally it moved enough.
 
Thanks, I am going to change all of that out tomm.Points, cap, condenser and coil. I will let everyone know how that turns out.
 
It sounds like something is weak in the ignition. From what you're saying it only happens under load. I've seen this happen with bad plug wires on a car or a bad plug. Since you're backfireing out of the stack, I'd say for one reason or another, your ignition is cutting out, and allowing unburned fuel to enter the exhaust. Then when it fires again, all that fuel is ignited causing your backfire. I'd start with a general tuneup. Go for points and condenser first and inspect your cap. You may have some bad plugs or even the wrong plugs, or maybe some bad plug wires. I remember when I was on here years ago, seems like some guys were putting in resistor plugs and causing ignition issues. I remember it's important to get the right plugs and plugwires on it.
 
One other thing after ignition tuneup- check your valve lash settings. Exhaust valve tight will hold cold a few minutes but leak and flame when warm. Not sure of gap-.012/.018/.024 or thereabouts? Brother got a H some years back and had rough run, spitting until he did valve adjustment. RN
 
I vote for a dirty carb and fuel problem. Sounds like a jet or passageway in the carb plugged up. Get a gallon can of berrymans carb soak and soak it for a day. Blow out all passages and jets with air compressor. Get a kit and replace needle valve and gaskets if you need to. You probably had some rust in the tank affecting the flow. Get rid of any inline filters. Pull the bottom plug in the carb and you should have a good flow for 5 minutes into a hose and 5 gal. gas can. At least take it apart and spray out all the passages and jets with a can or 2 of carb cleaner and then the air. You can get by without a kit if the needle and seat are ok but a kit is cheap.

By all means replace all the electronics to rule out those problems. Not that much money. Coil, points, condenser, rotor, dist cap, check the wires, and check the plugs. Don't piecemeal cause then when the problem comes back next year, you will wonder what to replace now. Replace them all now and then you should be good to go for a number of years. Keep the old ones for spares.

Let us know how it goes.
 
I took the carb off last night because when I pulled the drain plug on the carburator it only ran for about a count of two and then went to a trickle. I took the carb apart and clenaed it out then put it back together, put it back on the tractor and there was no flow at all! So I took it back apart and tried to blow where the fuel line enters and I could not get any air to pass. I took the float off and the needele was stuck. I got it unstuck and cleaned it, replaced the needle and the float and it almost imediatley became stuck again. So tonight I am going to rebuild the carb. Is there a certain make of rebuild kit I should look for? Also does a rebuild kit come with this needle valve? Thanks for all of your help I will let you know what happens.
 
Chris there is a difference in the kits and it mainly deals with the viton tipped needle. I went through a couple before I found one that wouldn't stick. Do not press the needle into the seat very hard as that seems to affect the tip. I think someone has the old fashioned metal tipped ones. You can search the archives for viton and find lots of info.

There are plenty of others around here who know more about it than I do who will probably respond. Spend the $22 or so for the Berrymans.
 
(quoted from post at 09:47:25 02/05/10) Chris there is a difference in the kits and it mainly deals with the viton tipped needle. I went through a couple before I found one that wouldn't stick. Do not press the needle into the seat very hard as that seems to affect the tip. I think someone has the old fashioned metal tipped ones. You can search the archives for viton and find lots of info.

There are plenty of others around here who know more about it than I do who will probably respond. Spend the $22 or so for the Berrymans.
Click to expand...

Viton tipped is all there is, even from Case-IH, unless you can find some N.O.S.

A can of aerosol carb cleaner will also help you. Spray it liberally on both the needle AND the seat and allow to dry before assembling. Helps a bunch with the sticky needle syndrome, but is not a 100% guarantee. A quick shot of silicon lubricant spray also seems to help, but still isn't 100%. I've rebuilt a BUNCH of H and M carbs, and I fight that sticky needle thing on every one. They always work just fine after being put to use, but it is a fight to get them functioning properly the FIRST time.
 
I tried antiseize on one and it didn't help. Another think I learned on the viton tip is not to use the needle as a fulcrum for setting/bending the float as the pressure pushes it into the seat. If you need to bend the tab to reset the float, then remove the needle and just use pliers and then check it with the needle in. I also noticed on my float that the needle kinda wallered out a depression in the metal tab area of the float. Used needle nose pliers to flatten that part out again.
 
Chris, Just one thing I can pass along as I was having all kinds of carb problems with the valve not shutting off fuel and overflowing. A mechanic friend of mine who works on tractors along with other vehicles told me to make certain that the rub area on the float where it contacts the valve be burnished perfectly smooth. Overwise the valve tends to find the center of the wear area on the float when it's closed and puts the valve in somewhat of a cocked position. This keeps the valve from shutting off the fuel flow. I understand your issue is being stuck in the seat but thought I would try and save you from that issue later. I found a NOS float at last years RPRU in Madison and just replaced the float which solved the issues I had from several rebuild attempts. Hope this is of value to you, Hal.
 
Alright fellows here we go. I rebuilt the carburetor, Put on a new coil, cleaned and re-gaped the plugs, replaced the plug wires and the coil wire, I checked the distributor cap for moister and cracks.. it looked good and there was no moisture. I started the H up and it was not to long and it started the same thing all over again..Should I replace the fuel line and petcock? I emptied the sediment bowl, then when I went to refill it it just trickled out through the petcock into the sediment bowl. By this time I was aggravated and went into the house to ask all of you what you thought I should try next. After I sat here for a little bit I think I should have looked in the tank for junk floating around in there. Could that cause the symptoms I talked about?
 
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