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welding an exhaust manifold.

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
anyone ever have any success welding an exhaust manifold on an IH, i'm a pretty good welder but was wondering if it works.
 
I have tried to do a few and it is pretty much a waste of time and rod. Manifolds heat up and cool down so much then any weld you put on does not hold long if at all.
 
Take it to a welding shop. They have cast iron welding wire that works great. I have had several done and they came out really good.
I just had one done on a little 2 stroke engine.
Manifold looks like new.
 
Yes you can use a tig welder and a zinc rod V out all the cracked area with a side grinder then weld. Done this on the A I have and it has been no problems since.
 
Welding cast iron requires that the piece be pre-heated. Then you will need to use either iron powder (if gas welding), you can braze it (brass), or you will need to use nickel rod (or wire if MIG).

When you are done, the piece will have to be slow cooled in sand. Then after cool, the weld area will have to be peened to relieve stress.

I have simplified this pretty much to illustrate if you are not setup to execute these steps, you are much better going to a weld shop that is.

If it is a standard manifold, I think you will find it reasonable to buy a new/used one. IF it is a dual-fuel one, then it might be worth repairing.

As always, IMHO.
 
it is a job pretty much for a good experienced welder that knows his metals. i have had some welded with very good luck. he could basicaly can weld to gether a manifold that was all broke up. but as i mentioned earlier this guy was a perfectionist. you dont use brazing either. the manifold gets red hot under load so was happens then, brazing melts.ya, so manifold welding is for the real welders.
 
I've welded several diiferent things made of cast iron. Intake and exhaust manifolds, antique chairs, generator brackets, manifolds on Detroit V8s,etc. using 7018 Low Hydrogen rod DC+ polarity and a hot enough to get a good weld. Most cases on the smaller items I warm them a bit first then weld and peen it several times right when I am done welding. On the longer welds or multi welds such as a manifold in several pieces, I tack it together and peen after each tack, then I really don't worry about preheating the large items that much. I just weld an inch or two at each spot then move around the part welding and peening until it is completely welded. By then the part is pretty much the same temp all over and I peen it a few more times around the part for the first 5 minutes after welding. Then either let it cool down by itself or in the case of the larger parts place it in sand until it cools. Usually have really good success with this method. Good Luck Dan
 
I got this from a neighbor who had luck one time on one manifold, so take this as a grain of salt.

He took the tractor out (IH 22-36)to the field and plowed with it, then shut if off, welded the manifold while it was hot and went right back out and plowed again. He claims the weld was still good when the tractor threw a rod ten years later. Jim
 
The manifold on my M and my A are both welded, and both are holding great. I used the same process on both. I preheated with the torch, welded them up with a nickel rod. Then I buried them in sand and didn't even bother to look at them for a day. The one on my 1945 A has been this way for at least 8 years and the M for at least 10 years.
 
Alway heat in oven 325 for 1hr weld and bury in sand, its good to warm sand before burial,ie-start small fire, let stay in sand till cool 10-12 hrs
 
I take both mine to a welding shop. He used Super Missle Rod on the one and it held great. The last one I had done he used newer, better rod, but I don't remember the name.
Preheat, Nickle Rod, and Sand/more heat was the best technology 20+ years ago, but there is a lot better stuff out there today. If you are a real DIY guy then do it, but both repairs were about $10. Knowing I have a better weld than I could do at home is worth it to me.
 
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