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IH 340 U hydraulic bypass plate

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Hello the past month I have been bringing back to life a IH 340 U it has 3 point with a hydro handle on the right side by the seat that has linkages to the cylinder and valve block in front of the shifter. This is all I have for hydro valves I see on Ebay that some one is selling a by pass plate for a different model do they make one for the 1962 IH 340 U. When I go to IH parts and look at the hydro systems it seems like they had a few different types. Also when I raise or lower the three point it will go up and down great but do you need to move the hydro handle when it's at the top or bottom of it's range mine don't go to center like the new tractors do. I want to put two more hydro valves on for planting then I would use Cross hydro valves on a made up bracket. Or if you have a better idea. Thank you,
 
You are probably talking about the bypass blocks for the Super A, C, Super C that are sold by a gentleman in Buffalo. He also makes a version for the Cub.

The 340U is a completely different hydraulic design from those older tractors, so this bypass block won't work. There is no bypass block for the 340U because it doesn't need one.

The 340U's hydraulic system is designed for remote cylinders. You can stack up to two more valves with the one you already have for two remotes and the 3pt hitch.

The valves are the same across all models from that time. 240, 340, 460 and 560 all used them, so you should be able to find what you need at a salvage yard. You can get a diagram by surfing to the parts search page at caseih.com.

In fact, make sure you don't already have two or three valves.
 
That's not it Pete.

Brian, the only way to find the parts you need is to find a junked tractor with them, or fabricate something to perform the same function yourself.

I've done some more looking at the 340's hydraulic system. There appears to be two different types. One is engine-driven with the pump and lines on the side of the engine. The other is transmission driven with the pump inside the tractor itself.

On the transmission-driven setup, a hose comes out one side of the tractor and goes up to the valve bank. Another hose comes out of the valve bank and goes back into the side of the tractor.

One of these hoses is pressure. If you can figure out which one, you could re-route that hose to a generic 2-spool open-center hydraulic valve with power beyond, then back into the tractor's valve bank.
 
I was looking at the end plate and I think it might
be strong enough for me to remove it and drill and
tap a 3/8 national pipe thread into it and then run
some hydro hoses out and run that to a couple open
center valves. Still looking for a junker or on ebay
I have a few months before it warms up here in
Wisconsin. I have the tractor purring like a kitten.
It was stored inside for 15 years never run during
that time was the gas tank nice looking inside.Thank
you, for the info
 
modern three point controls, and a 340 with tel-a-depth would have the control lever not return to center. (i assume a 340 could have that system). THe lever"s position on the quadrant is relative to the positon of the hitch in its lift range. low is low, and high is high, and anywhere in between should be about the same between the control and the hitch.
An aftermarket type 3-point usually has a spring to center type control valve because the mechanisms and valving to duplicate factory 3 point contols would be complicated, unreliable, and expensive on a tractor not originally designed for such a system.

The tel-a-depth system is complicated and unreliable compared to a modern factory 3 point lift. Many people who used those tractors from new had issues with the depth control not working as intended and many today do not work correctly at all because of maintenace and repair complications.

you"ll have to identify whether your single valve is a tel-a-depth or standard remote valve and whether your 3 point is factory or custom.

karl f
 
Brian, I went thru this on a 340U a couple years agoand if I recall correctly I went to the junker and bought the valve pack off a 400???, not real sure of model, however the valve units were the same to stack together, and with a little creative engineering I modified the handle package to fit in and worked like intended HAD THE ORIGINAL THREE POINT SETUP AS WELL AS THE TWO VALVES FOR REMOTES oops HTH
 
(quoted from post at 14:32:07 01/28/10) I was looking at the end plate and I think it might
be strong enough for me to remove it and drill and
tap a 3/8 national pipe thread into it and then run
some hydro hoses out and run that to a couple open
center valves.
Click to expand...

Yeah, but you can't just drill holes in the end plate.

It's an open center system, which means there can only be one path for the hydraulic fluid through the entire system.

If you drill holes, you create a second path for the fluid to flow. The fluid will always take the path of least resistance, and NONE of your hydraulics will work anymore:

You pull the lever on your spool valve, and the fluid will flow through the 3pt valve. You pull the lever on the 3pt valve, and the fluid will flow through the spool valves.

To work, fluid has to flow out of the pump, through the spool valves, into the 3pt valve, and back into the reservoir.
 
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