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farmall 504 #1 cylinder compression

T

Toro in Texas

Member
Help...I own a gas farmall 504 that has zero compression on the #1 cylinder, all other cylinder compressions are good. Tractor using more gas than it should and getting gas in the oil...I think. Other than that engine runs good. I see in my near future minimally...pulling oil pan and head to see what has occurred and then go from there. Figured I ask before pulling. What do ya"ll think is causing the #1 cylinder zero compression and what I"ll find?
Thanks,
David
 
Turn the engine till #1 is on compression TDC.
Put it in high gear and lock the brakes, and block the wheels/
Put 100 PSI of air pressure into the spark plug hole and listen in the oil fill, air cleaner (throttle open), and exhaust pipe for the escaping air. This diagnoses the location of the defect. Crank Case is piston related or cracked head.
Air intake is intake valve,
Exhaust is exhaust valve.
Pulling the pan is not first, pulling the valve cover will be first, allowing a look at the valve train,
It could be a broken valve spring!! Cheap and easy. JimN
JimN
 
Start on the top end and verify that the exhaust valve is closing and seating. Then go from there, removing the head if you find it necessary. If the engine has been allowed to get water into the valves, there could be rust or carbon on the valve and seat. Try taking the valve rocker arm assembly off, turn the engine until this piston is up, put something into the cylinder against the valve and remove the valve spring by removing the keepers, being careful to not let the valve drop into the engine. Then chuck the valve stem firmly in a small drill motor and turn the valve while pulling and releasing against the valve seat. Apply a little WD 40 through the spark plug hole to the valve seat area. Then clamp and hold the valve shut with Vice Grips and see if compression is improved. May save a head removal. Problem could also be piston or rings damaged or connecting rod broken?
 
as jim says, and then take the head into a machine shop for a valve job! not this electric drill, wd40 and visegrip stuff!visegrips will damage the valve stem. the valve seat has a spec for width, the seat needs to be positioned on the valve properly.the valve can only be ground so much, not till the face is sharp as it will burn. there is tolerences for valve guide wear and valve stem wear .there is spring tension specs.give the job to a professional.
 
Keep us posted on what the problem is. Should you have a problem with the rocker assembly, I have a good one that I would be willing to part with. Just thought I would throw that in there.
 
take the valve cover off and make sure the rocker arms are working, might only need to put a push rod back on.
 
Pulled valve cover as advised and low and behold the second pushrod from the front, I think intake...but correct me if I'm wrong, was broke into two pieces. I got both pieces out, and put valve cover back on to keep the elements out. Please advise as to where to get a replacement pushrod along with any "special/important" pushrod installation instructions. Also there was side to side play in the first rocker arm...do I need to be concerned with this?
This forum/knowlege tool is a blessing.
Thanks, David
 
Anybody that sells IH parts will have one either new or used will be cheap. The valve stuck open and then the position closed it. Oil the valve and with a block of wood and a hammer tap the valve to loosen it and work the oil into it. The valve will Snap shut after you hit it down, and if it doesn t Snap it is still hanging up. This would be a good place for Marvel Mystery Oil. Just be sure not to hit the washer like retainers on the valves just the stems(you can hit the valve stem and the retainer but not just the retainer) if you hit the retainers only they can come off and the valve will fall into the cyl and then the head has to come off. Any ? just shoot an Email.Kevin
 
Havin 504 fun now. Got replacement pushrod and went to install today...no luck. I couldn"t get pushrod to go down low enough. It was about 3/4" to high, no matter where I hand the crank spun to. The intake valve spring is in open position and valve seems to be free...unless I"ve bumped my head. I compared pushrod with another rod and they were both 10 3/4" length. Is it possible the cam shaft on the #1 cylinder intake is bad...do I still have a stuck valve, and can I visually inspect cam without engine disassembly to confirm possible cam problem? This 4 cylinder engine runs good other than its only hitting on three cylinders. I"m thinking about getting a bigger hammer. Please advise and thanks.
 
Forget my last entry...after getting some sleep I went out and tried putting pushrod in again and she went right into position with a little force. Just a tight fit getting rod past rocker arm to get pushrod to seat on cam.
 
504 gaseer is up and running on all four cylinders now. Bought a new pushrod, $50.00 ouch, installed, set valve lash using this forum. Got to wondering and researching forum on what might have contributed to causing intake valve to stick and break pushrod...and realized that my engine oil pressure was at 20 psi when warmed up and that might be contributor. Discovered oil pump bottom cover was warped. Bought a pump on ebay for $10 and that bottom cover was warped also. Machined bottom cover flat, built a .010" metal gasket, and a .250" steel plate that bolts to, goes over perimeter, and over pump bottom plate...basically beefed cover up. Cranked engine up and she purrs like a kitten, pulls good, not smoking , and oil pressure is at 50 psi warmed up, and 150+ psi on each cylinder. This forum sure helped breath life back into this 504 gasser. Thanks...time to plow.
 
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