Long term storage of Farmall H

Looking for pointers on what to do for long term storage of one of my H's. It was my grandpa/ grandma's tractor and was the tractor I learned on. Its been parked for 2 years because I think the rings are worn out because it oil fouls the spark plugs out, needs the hydro cylinder on the loader redone, pto is worn out, generator is shot and lots of little things. Plan on doing my first complete tear down and rebuild on it someday just dont know when. Have too many other projects and very little $$$ and time right now.
Should I do anything to make it easier when it comes time to fix it? I turn the engine over about twice a year by turnin the fan belt in hopes of keepin the valves from sticking, and pistons free. I've heard people talk about blocking the clutch pedal, good or bad thing to do?? Fill gas tank up to keep from rusting?? Wood under tires?? I do put a cap or 2 of oil in the cylinders when I turn it over by hand. Its inside a barn with a dirt floor.
Thanks for any help
Ryan in Northern Michigan

Drain the gas tank to prevent rusting. Drain the carburetor to reduce the varnish build-up. Block the tractor up to keep the tires out of the dirt. Drain and refill the transmission/rear end to get the watery old oil out of there. Same with the engine and Lift-All.

Putting the oil in the cycls is great drain the gas tank and carb. Sitting on the dirt floor is the best. Mite want to jack up so the tires dont get flat spots.I would put a couple gal of diesel in the gas tank after draining the gas to keep from rusting on the bottom and keep the gas cap tight mite need a little oil on the cap gasket to make sure it seals. Sitting on the dirt sure will keep it from drawing moisture. good luck

Manually barring the engine over a couple times a year is a good idea. So also is shooting a couple squirts of motor oil into each jug first. Tip: In warm months check for wasps, etc. behind the fan shroud BEFORE turning the engine (I learned this the hard way!)

When you bar the motor also “exercise” the various controls: Governor handle, hydraulic rod, gear lever, pedals, PTO shifter, etc. to keep them loose.

Personally I wouldn’t block the clutch. I’ve had more sticking problems with a clutches that were blocked than left engaged.

Drain the gas tank! Also empty the sediment bulb and drain the fuel line and carb. Reason: The gas we get today – at least here in NY – is “oxygenated” for emissions. Means that even when treated with StaBil, etc. it goes bad in the matter of a few months. Better to leave the fuel system dry than to have to clean gum/varnish out of it later!

If you can, jack and support the tractor to so the tires are off the dirt floor - it’s better for the tires. It also permits you to manually rotate the rear wheels each time you roll the engine. This spreads gear oil over the transmission’s upper internals.

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Other stuff:

Check for water in the transmission (drain plug under the PTO). If water comes out when you loosen the plug, let it drain until it changes to oil. Then refill to full lwith fresh 85W-90 gear oil.

If you haven’t already take out the battery. Otherwise it’ll freeze/split sooner or later with an undesirable effect on the battery box and metal parts underneath.

Drain the cooling system or fill it with fresh 50-50 antifreeze mix.

Give every zerk fitting a shot of grease. But you need do this only once - not every time you bar the engine over.

Stick a can over the exhaust – even if it’s got a rain cap.

I'd say no to the diesel fuel It can grow an algae if left too long.
I'd pour about a quart of liquid wd-40 (after draining)in there and spray as much of the sides and top as I could.

If you are not going to jack the tires off the dirt then run up the pressure to about 25. Spray the tires with a good coat of silicone. Armorall, whatever.

GW

Your situation is a little different from what I've hd to do for storage, and I'll only address the motor part. I had a fresh rebuild on a 113 motor. It was put together with assembly lube slathered any place I could put it except the cylinder walls. When it became evident that it would be some time before I had the tractor ready to run, I undertook a program of pulling the plugs and giving her a good hard spin for a minute or two about once a month, and replacing the plugs to hard-finger-tight. Every third month or so, I'd squirt a little oil in through the plug holes and let it settle a little before spinning. This went on for three years, MUCH longer than I had ever planned on. When I did have her together enough, she started on the thrid pull of the crank and has run like a champ ever since.

This tractor was undercover, so I'd only add that a soup can, even over a rain-cap/flapper, is an excellent idea if yours is to sit out in the elements.

If I were you, I'd mix some stabil in the gas and make sure it gets through the fuel system if it's going to be sitting for a long time. If you get the tires off the ground it will help prevent dry rot on the bottom. Depending on how dry the barn is, you might want to spray the whole thing down with a light film of oil if the paint isn't so good to prevent any more rust. You could fog the engine but it sounds like it locking up isn't an issue. As far as blocking the clutch pedal, that will prevent the clutch from getting stuck but it will also weaken your pressure plate springs over time. If your barn is nice and dry, I think I wouldn't block the clutch engaged.

Make sure the mice dont build a nest in your clutch housing, The urine will rust every thing bad, I had this happen.