gas tank repair was full of water

I would like to know the best way to remove the water,rust, and whatevers in the gas tank on a 340 U I have the tank out of it. If I remember right there is something that can be poured in it to line it also.I know I have seen posts on it in the past. I tried looking it up on the search and I didn't find it. Thank you, Brian

Do a search on 'Red Kote' and you'll find numerous entries on this product and others. I've cleaned and relined three gas tanks with this stuff and all are functioning real well so far.

There is a couple companies in RPM this month. Classic Gas Tanks...repair, clean, line for $55-85. 217-568-7234. Place called the shop sells a tank sealer...link attached:
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Call raceawayparts at 1-866-732-3977. Hal

I'd put a length of chain in the tank and with a gallon of water rock it back and forth for a while to knock any rust loose. Then flush with lots of water. It it were summer I'd let it dry in the hot sun. This time of year you will have to be more creative. Once you get it clean there are several products you can coat it with. If there is any doubt on the lines I'd replace them.

I've had several fuel tanks cleaned and sealed at Gas Tank Re-Nu, here in MN. They have several shops around the country.

Website: http://www.gastankrenu.com/

It's not cheap, but afterward you never have to mess with the tank again. When I had the tank done for my M, it was around $160. They cut a hole in the back of the tank to clean behind the baffle plate, and then patch the hole.

I've tried cleaning tanks by sloshing around rocks, then using iron etch, but they never get completely clean. Seems like the sediment bowl inlet always plugs at the worst time. For me it's worth the extra money to never have the frustration of messing with it again. I'm going to take the tank for my A there next month.

Having it out helps. With my 2606, the tank has a baffle in the middle so chain don't help much.

Phosphoric acid works the best on getting rid of rust and keeping it from flash rusting when done as it leaves the metal with rust resistant finish. I check the EPA listed concentrations of products containing phosphoric acid and Behr concrete and masonry etcher which is in a gray plastic gallon jug at Home cheapo has the highest concentration and best price at about $15 a gallon. For heavy duty rust, I'd pour in a gallon of Muratic acid to initially clean it up and then switch to the phospheric acid. You may want to scrape some with a wire or pour some nuts and bolts in with it to shake around.

Pour a half gallon or whatever it takes to cover the bottom. Then when the rust dissolves, lay it on its sides until it is clean.

When all clean and done, liberally spray the metal with a dessicant such as wd-40 to coat the metal some more to help avoid flash rusting.

Or spend the bucks to plastic coat the thing. If the metal tank lasted 50 years like it is, you should be good to go for a while.

The trick is to have a screen or rubber hose sticking up into the tank an inch or so on your sediment bowl or pipe bushing so as any new rust collects, the screen or hose will stop it. Need a gas resistant hose. I used a rolled up piece of nylon window screen where I just use pipe fittings coming out the bottom.

Then keep the tank full of gas in the winter so water can't condense on the tank and create rust.

There's a product called Evapo-Rust that worked pretty good on a 3-wheeler tank I needed to de-rust.

Only problem with it, it's water-based, and will freeze. I had a chumcicle to thaw out.

$20 a gallon though, and you either need to be able to position the tank and let it soak for a couple of days in each area, or you need enough to fill the tank. 5 gallon containers are probably a little cheaper.

Check with the larger motorcycle shops. They deal with this daily.

Gordo

When we had an M with a rusty gas tank, we took the tank off, threw in a few handsfull of old nuts and bolts, added some water and strapped it to the wheel of another M. We then used the second M normally, and after driving for a while, the tank was clean and as a bonus we had some clean nuts and bolts. After about 15 years of use, the tank is still clean today.

Also, around here, most good radiator shops also clean and repair gas tanks.

I like that cleaning method. LOL, I recently did a tank and used small nails with a rather large head on them. I shook it by hand, but the rotating method is much easier. After cleaning it good, I sealed it with "red cote". Someone had done a bad job with "kreeme" I had to clean all that mess out with acetone and start over. The red cote seemed to do a great job.