HELP! 1466 with VERY sloppy inner trans shifer, .......

Hello everyone,
Well I just got my "new" 1466 Turbo, but the inner shifter, for gears and reverse, is VERY sloppy, I don't have a repair manual yet. Could anyone help by telling me how to tighten it up? Do I shim it or could there be a part missing? Also the front power steering cylinder is missing the outer end, the hoses are connected to it, and the guy has it wired to where the front axle swivels, where the front axle pin is. I am pretty sure it's missing the end of the shaft that connects to the outer tie rod end or towards the wheel, it's got a wide front of course. I can't wait till I get my shop manual. In the meantime, ANY help would be GREATLY appreciated! God bless all, and thanks in advance for ANY assistance, and for your time.
Sincerely,
Jeff
Cairo, Missouri

down where the shifter linkage goes into the trans there is a double roll pin. check that first. If it needs replacement do not use bolt as they will shear off, I have replaced thousands of them and I can tell you that even a grade 10 bolt will shear off. If it is sloppy like I have seen then this is you problem but it could be up in the shifter just off the side of the dash.

Mike has it right or if the detent for the lever is soft /weak/or whatever you want to call it you will have to pull the lid under the cab to fix it. Check the pins on the vertical shaft if not there then its under the lid. While in there look at the detent cam ,for the position selection as they wear out and then it wont stay in location for the speed you choose.

Start at the top with the gearshift lever and work your way down to the transmission. There are several ball joint connectors and places where holes will become worn. I replaced most everything on my 1256 last winter and it wasn't a bad job. Of course my tractor didn't have a cab. If it had a cab it would be a real PIA. If you go to a Case-IH dealer and find a good parts guy that is familiar with these older tractors you will do okay. My dealer sold me a kit from Hy-Capacity that contained one or two steel pieces that I think were basically the range selctors that the gearshift handles mesh into. That was kind of hard to get off and it almost has to be pressed back on. That little update helped mine a lot and I also replaced every linkage and roll pin that I could. As others mentioned you might need to pull the range cover off and see what is worn inside. As far as the frontend goes it sound like it is okay. The front axel should pivot and that cylinder doesn not have any ends on it. Good luck.

Thank you ALL for the great advise and info. This thing is SO sloppy, the shifter on the inside that puts it into the "ranges", since it's the one that also puts it in reverse. The outer shifter, that just goes from 1 to 4 isn't really bad. The inside one is so sloppy I would say there can't be a whole lot holding it together. It's hard to even tell when it IS in gear or range, you even have to play with it to get it into reverse. The steering wheel is so loose I thought it was going to come off in my hand. This guy REALLY tried to pull one over on me, but I put my company lawyers on his case and he is going to give me a FULL refund. It's really sad when people can't be honest, or think they can just lie and cheat people with NO consequence's, well this guy messed with the WRONG person. He even threw his own wife under the bus, since she is the one on record as receiving payment, I don't think she would like it too much, being hauled into court, because her husband wasn't man enough to tell the truth. I really liked the tractor, but it has more WIRE holding it together, than it does BOLTS! Anyway, my lawyers gave him the option of a TOTAL refund, or paying to have the tractor fixed. I will find out today what the "person" (I really have other names for him) wants to do. Either way I'm covered and he's going to loose money on the deal, just because he couldn't be honest. Thanks again to ALL of you for your kindness, time, and assistance. God bless.
Sincerely,
Jeff