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Kevin in MI

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a8786.jpg
 
Kevin,
Where are you located in Michigan - I see your comments with more regularity and was just curious. I'm here in Highland, central eastern area of lower peninsula about 1/2 hr west of Pontiac. What tractor is your distributor from?

Mich John
 
Good morning John,

I'm in Kalamazoo. I'm sure you know where that is. In early fall, I bought a '43 H to use for pulling logs (I burn wood for home heating). I've since been bitten by the tractor bug. I use to build street rods, but that got too pricey. Anyway I'm just doing a little upgrading to my H.

Kevin
 
Kevin,

Most people's reaction to this post will be, "Yeah, so? Did you have a question or something?"

I can only conclude your pictures are related to a question you asked at some other point.

Rather than make us search for the other thread with that question, it would help if you did one of two things:

1. Post these pictures as a reply to your original question.
2. Re-iterate your original question in this thread.

If the question is, "Can you replace one with the other?" the answer is YES. You will need a different kill switch, though.

It's best if the distributor came off the same tractor as it's going on. IH made distributors with different advances for different tractors. With the wrong advance, the engine will still run but it won't perform as well.
 
From what I can see I can tell you this. You have the wrong type of plug wires and that will cause you problems. Those are automotive resistance type plug wires and are a carbon fiber wire and they do not work well and can cause big problems on tractors. You need TRUE copper wire plug wires on tractors
 
Thank you Hal!! So the "A" designation indicates I have the proper distributor for an H and not an M. Will it be easily seen?

Thanks again, Kevin
 
kevin, it looks to be the correct distributor. first thing i'd do is check the distributor shaft bushings before installing. remove the cap and push the rotor side to side and look for any excessive play. then there are two flat blade screwdriver head plugs on the distributor, unscrew them, screw in a grease zerk and give each a couple pumps of grease. you may want to put new points and condenser in there too. your yellow wire going to the mag is a ground to kill the engine. you will need to run a hot wire from the battery hot thru a switch and then on to the ignition coil. the plunger switch on your tractor is for a mag, you need a different on off switch.
 
WOW!! Excellent information... Thank you. Curious why is the plunger switch different? Also, I have a toggle switch for a kill switch. Will that need to be changed as well?

Thanks a million, Kevin
 
if you are using a toggle switch, you will need to tap power from the battery, run the wire thru the switch and then on to the power side of the coil. if you are 6v pos ground, you will tap the neg post on either the battery or inside the light/ammeter box, then run that wire thru the switch to the minus terminal of the coil. the plus terminal of the coil then goes to the terminal on the outside of the distributor body. the mag plunger type switch was a single terminal switch that grounded the mag wire to the tractor chassis to shut the engine off.
 
There are a lot of different advance curves offered for different set ups BUT your tractor has been getting along fine for 60 years without an advance mechanism set it by ear at maximum RPM and it will run fine, at least it works for me. Have read a lot of posts praising magnetos and later the same person posts that distrbutor. advance must be just right.
 
Ya know, I think all of this has already been done, as it is a 6V positive ground that is using an external coil with a toggle switch to shut off. I'll check it out when I get home from work this afternoon.

Sould I install this with the battery disconnected and if so, will I need to re-polarize the generator?

If I get stuck, can I lean on you with questions? I'm not a mechanic, but I'm mechanicall enough to be dangerous.

Kevin
 
prolly be safest to disconnect the battery. do you have a manual that show how to replace and re-time the distributor?
 
Nope... Would it be different than a SB chevy procedure (TDC on #1, rotor pointing at #1 in cap)?

Maybe I should get a manual... Huh?!?

I want you to know that I really appreciate your guidance!
 
if you have done a distributor on a sb chevy, you shouldnt have a problem. locate tdc on the compression stroke before pulling the mag, make sure the rotor is pointing to #! plug wire in the cap, then you can pull the mag . set up the distributor the same way as far as rotor position and install the distributor. the tractor timing is set with the engine off at tdc,use a test lite and set the distributor so the points just open then lock it down.
 
charles, the photo with the yellow wire is of the mag he has on his h. lower down are 2 pics of a distributor he bought off e bay. the mag isnt working and he plans on swapping the mag for the distributor. there is also a link i posted to kevins previous post. this thread kinda jumps around some!!
 
Here's the data on the IH mags & Distributors. You should get one of these manuals as they have a lot of useful info in. I bought this one in 1975. Hal
14l4nf4.jpg

55iec9.jpg
 
It's been great chattin with you! Thanks for the help. I'll post when I've installed the distributor and let you know how it went (I felt somewhat confident before, now I know it won't be any trouble at all).

You all are a great reference for my new hobby. I look forward to challenging you in the future, but I know you'll have the answers.

Kevin
 
They can be Wound wire magnetic supression wires, and be OK. The carbon core wires are poor for tractor use. JimN
 
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