C-123 Camshaft

I am about to overhaul the engine in my 230 and am a bit confused about renewing the camshaft. According to my IT manual there are no camshaft bearings. Is the camshaft something that just does not wear out ? About all I find parts wise are camshaft gears. Also what about the lifters? The engine is currently in use with little to no oil pressure and low compression. Thanks in advance.

Arlin
 
The engine block is machined for the camshaft and
doesn't use removable cam bearings. The A, B,C
& Super C didn't have them either. Your oil pump may be the problem for low pressure. Hal
 
Hal has given you good info, the most common cause I have seen for low oil pressure is the warped bottom plate on the oil pump, 2nd is a previous engine "inspection" by a well meaning person who put the bearing caps back in wrong places.

When looking for damage from oil starvation around the cam, check for lobes that are starting to round off and concave lifter faces. I just finished rebuilding a C that had low oil pressure and I had to replace the cam, lifters and the rocker arm assy; but that would be unusual for a motor maintaining avg pressure.
 
Could a person machine the block to install cam bearings like an auto? Maybe it"s just not necessary? I would assume the cam is made of "softer material" than the block and it wears first?
 
If you have the money almost anything is possible, but those tractors have been running over 50 years with that setup. Back when I was a teen, farmers used those A & B tractors just about everyday. From mowing, raking, cultivating, plowing and belt work. I doubt if that tractor is going to be used that much.
Hal
 
When I had my oil pump out, (I had 10# of oil pressure before I started), not only did I have to get the bottom plate milled, (the gears ride directly on it, and cut into it), but a 1/2 piece of the gasket was blown out.

Now, I replaced all my engine bearings too, because it was in the middle of an overhaul, and I have an oil gauge that reads to 30# when I believe the original read 0-60, but the needle has been pegged on 30# ever since.

Real easy to drop out the oil pump, too.
 
You should get crankshaft measured for wear. It may need to be ground undersize. Your local auto machine shop can determine what it needs.
Have them furnish the correct bearings too. You need to take a lot of pictures, take notes when tearing the engine down. I would pull the engine
and if the block is sludged I would have it cleaned and all the oil passages cleaned. Good time to look at your clutch too. Hal
PS: Keep all the parts separated using cardboard boxes. You can get them free at most super markets. It will save time when doing the rebuild.
 
I don't think those cam journals wear very easily
and the block bore and journals can be measured for wear. I did a Farmall A back in 1975 & 1976
and it was in sad shape when I purchased it and the 16-inch moldboard plow for $100.00. The engine was stuck, needed fenders, tires, wiring rims and steering wheel. With a complete engine rebuild it ran and looked pretty good. I made the mistake of using our local IH paint. I should've discarded it. I had the clutch disc relined too. Hal
PS: I used the same cam that came in it and it had very good oil pressure. I used 30 wt oil in it.
16l9zl4.jpg
 
I have had this tractor for about 10 years and use it to rake hay. It is almost priceless because my wife really enjoys raking hay while I cut or bale more hay. I don't need a major breakdown in the middle of summer.

Arlin
 
There is a cam bearing for the front cam journal. The other two ride directly in the block. This is a slow RPM engine with little pressure on the valve springs. Because of that you are not likely to find much wear on the cam bearing journals or the block.
 
Thanks guys! That answers my question for sure. I am lookin at the same issues with my A as Eltoro's. The cyl. head had been removed and left to rust up tight. Everything else besides the cylinder liners and pistons looks useable but unsure till I get it completly disassembled. I would love to find a C-123 for cheap to O/H instead!! :) I'll settle for the C-113 for now. Thanks for the replys!!
 

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