Want to change brakes on my A

How difficult is it to change brakes on my A Any special tools? Thanks

No special tools to speak of, but it will take some lifting capacity. On the left side, it's a matter of unhooking the brake linkage, and pulling the final drive away from the transmission. The short diff shaft will comea way with it, and the band will slip right off the drum. On the right side, the brake is on the outer end. That requires a little more creative lifting setup, as the shaft is a lot longer. I THINK you can unbolt just the final, but you'' need room at the side to slip the shaft out of the housing, and you may have a little difficulty lining up the shaft to put things back together. SO, it may be better and in the end and easier to pull the housing first and then slip it off over the shaft. This will involve removing some of the seat platform from eithe the tractor or (easier) from the shaft housing and final drive.

There'd be no better time than while you havte things apart for the brakes to look over the seals around the differential shafts on both sides. There's a seal on each final drive where the shaft passes out through, and another on each side of the tranny. If you've got a lot of oil on the brake drums, take that as a sign of a leaky seal on teh final on the right side. On the left it could be either seal. The only extra work involved, once you're in that far, to change the seals on the final drives is that you'll have to get the brake drums off the shafts, so that you can pull the shafts to replace the seals. Removing the drums will either go easily or require rigging a puller. The seals on the tranny end are pretty straightforward.

Scotty has it right. But...I want to add some safety items. These tractors can be very unstable when you remove the rear wheels and final drives. So do one side at a time and put wood wedges in the front between axle and bolster so the front axle can't pivot. Best not to remove wheel and final drive on one side unless the other wheel and final drive are in place on the tractor.

I agree with Haas on with the safety issue with these offset tractors. I bought a Super A and a Cub this fall. While fixing tire issues on the Cub I put a jack stand under the right and left side of the drawbar and blocked the front tires. I removed both rear rims then removed the wheel centers with the wheel weights still attached because the bolts were rusted. Taking the left one off was no problem but when removed the right the tractor tipped to the left side. It would have gone off the jacks but the Woods mower bracket stopped it. I stuck a bottle jack under the left side and tipped it level.
I usually stop and look things over before I remove wheels but being a newbie to offset tractors I didn’t think to block the bolster from pivoting.
Think safety first.
Dell

No special tools really. The only semi-unique tool would be a puller. Which most people have. Just make sure you keep it stable when tearingit apart and stay out from underneath just in case something gives way.

I guess youwont need a puller, your not pulling the drums off.

I meant to say that I took the right wheel weight off first then the tractor tipped left then I jacked it and took the left weight off.
Doesnt change the point but it makes more sense.

Dell

On my Super A the drums were not even secured to the axles, the locking screw was loose. The tractor does need to be secured, I blocked the front axle with wedges as outlined in the operators manual for changing back wheels, packed under the transmission with blocks to take the weight and secured the the rock-shaft arms to an overhead frame using a racket tackle as a safety precaution, one might have an earthquake here whist no back axles on the tractor.