Replacing a Charlynn output shaft coupling on an H

nt moore · Jan 6, 2010

I posted a few weeks ago about replacing a broken Charlynn output shaft coupling on my dad"s H. We"ve got the new part and I hope to do the work this weekend (so long as it doesn"t get too cold).

From what I can tell, there isn"t presently enough play in the shaft to slip the coupling out, and so I"ll have to pull the cover off the front steering "assembly" with the hope of puling the shaft forward enough to slip in a new assembly.

Is there a seal I"ll need to renew in this front steeting "knuckle" (I don"t know what else to call it). Also, I think there"s a seal around the shaft as it comes into the steering gear. Will I need to replace this seal?

I"m basically worried that I"ll get the thing half apart and then realize that I"m missing something necessary to put the steering back together.
original thread

David G · Jan 6, 2010

There is a seal where the steering shaft goes into the steering gear. It may be ok if it was not leaking before.

soybeanjoe · Jan 7, 2010

Like David G said, there is a seal at the back of the sector housing where the shaft goes in. If it's leaking there while you have the shaft out check it for wear. Sometimes the shaft is worn & a new seal won't stop the leak, BTDT. In that case I have put the seal in backwards to get it off the worn place & in one case put 2 seals in, inner in backwards & outer in normal.

Front plug doesn't have a seal, pipe plug that seals seals itself when tightened, but I had one that would leak. Ended up having to put a new plug in.

mkirsch · Jan 7, 2010

That seal won't be leaking because there probably isn't any oil in the gearbox. Most of them have been pumped full of gun grease because the bottom seal is shot, and it's a chore to replace.

Simply remove the grille, turn out that pipe plug, and roll the steering shaft, worm gear, and bearing assembly out by rotating it. Then you'll have plenty of room.

nt moore · Jan 7, 2010

SO I don't actually have to take the top cover off of the steering gearbox? I didn't realize that the threading would allow me to just screw the rod straight forward. If it works it will be a very clever trick.

Thanks!

glennster · Jan 7, 2010

when you drive the roll pins out of the coupling, put some blocks of wood between the coupling and the valve cover to support the torque genny. over zealous banging in the roll pin can crack the torque genny. once the pins are out, with the front pipe plug removed, spin the steering wheel one way then the other. it should walk the shaft put the front of the bolster. i forget which way, i think turning to the right walks it out.

Bob M · Jan 7, 2010

I did mine exactly as mkirsch describes - unscrewed the front plug then rolled the worm/bearing/shaft assembly forward.

If the input shaft seal is worn out don't worry about it. Simply pack the gear box full with good quality grease before you put the cover back on.

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Tip: Use new roll pins at both ends of the coupling (should be a small one nested inside a larger one).

When I took mine apart I found an inner pin was missing and the outer one cracked. It was simple good luck the cracked pin hadn't sheared resulting in a loss of steering.

soybeanjoe · Jan 7, 2010

Yes, all you have to do is unscrew the plug at the front of the sector housing & backout the steering shaft.

Personally, I don't like gungrease in the sector housing it makes them hard to steer in cold weather, at least the ones that don't have power steering. Grease just masks the other problems To each his own though

Replacing a Charlynn output shaft coupling on an H

nt moore

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David G

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soybeanjoe

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mkirsch

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nt moore

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glennster

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Bob M

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soybeanjoe

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