(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

water in the trans

C

cazzhrdwd

Member
Any of you guys have water in the trans.I constantly have this problem. This oil has been in this super m for 6 months, never been left outside and it looks like coffee with cream. It has to come from sweating through the trans case. My question is, is there a way to get the water out of the oil so I don't have to spend another 160.00 for oil.

Thanks cazz
 
If you can drain plain water out the bottom, do that first. The only real cure for it is regular heavy work. If you poke around in the archives you can find guys asking if the seat deck/tranny cover on their tractor is supposed to get as hot as it does. The answer is that it will if you're working it hard, and that's the way you evaporate out the water that's gone into suspension with your oil.

Other than that, there's a lot of tractors with a lot worse in the transmission case. If you're not working it heavy, that light coffee color isn't going to hurt much. If you are working it heavy, the light coffee color will go away.
 
I'm with Scotty; let it sit for 2-3 weeks, then pull the drain plug and let the water out. When you hit dark oil, cram the plug back into the threads and zip it up. Add oil as needed to bring up to side "full" hole.
 
I believe a dip stick heater in the level hole, or other electric heater (possibly a small 220v water heater element) running on 120v put in a drain hole, would do a great job of removing the water buildup. JimN
 
Jim I really like that idea cause I don't think I can work it hard enough. Thanks for all the suggestions. What are some things I could do to work this tractor hard? I've got some discing to do but only about 3 acres. Maybe a new pull behind mower :)
 
Working the engine hard is going to be a limited answer. The Manual trans and differential/bull gears are about 95% or so efficient what goes into them comes out as axle rotation, or heat. The engine power must go through the gears as torque/HP to heat the trans. Disking is good, but it would take a hot summer day and three times over the 3 acres to make a dent in the needed heat. Pulling a mower is light on gear load, and just loads the PTO shaft and constant mesh gear in the trans. A heater for a 5 gallon under sink Water heater might just do it. I would use a 220v element on 120vac to reduce the heat (temperature) by 50%. I believe there is no need to run it more often than twice a winter for just enough time to make the housing pretty warm.
There is a good reason to put it on a timer, and also to submerge it in a bucket of the oil (drained out for a test) to make sure it does not over heat and burn the gear oil. JimN
 
When you burp your transmission, make sure the fill plug is tight so the tranny has no vent. Then when you pull the drain plug, have it ready to stick back in. It will only want to dump a quart or two before it airlocks for a split second and long enough that you can restart the drain plug.

Unless you are having hydraulic problems, I'm not sure it does much good to change the oil in the winter. Just get more condensation in it. Keep the snow and ice away from the shifter. Find a bucket or something that will cover the shifter. You want to keep the rain off of it starting in the spring.
 
Tillage work is usually about the heaviest. I don't know what shpe your ground is in or how big your disc is or how much of a load it would put on that SM, but you might try discing that 3 acres up a couple or three times over at angles. If you can find a club that might have a plow day next spring and somebody willin' to hitch you up to their plow, a couple hours of that will help a lot, too.

The same thing will happen with your motor oil, which is easier to deal with. My tractors don't get run a lot so I make a point of trying to run them until they've been up to operating temp for a half-hour or so whenever I do run them. That keeps the condensation in the crankcase under control.
 
What are your thoughts on this? My 2606 bypasses after the pilot control valve to the radiator for cooling and then back to the rear end.

For those of us who don't plow 12 hours a day anymore we don't need the cooling.

What about disconnecting the radiator feed and instead loop a new same size steel line around the exhaust manifold a few times and then tie it in where the cooling lines were? Then plug the cooling lines to the radiator in case you want to switch back in the summer.

That will get some heated oil to the rear end and tranny quicker and be better on the pump as well. I suppose it would take some experimentation to determine how many loops around the exhaust you would want to get the right temp but it shouldn't be a problem. Same concept is used in some small airplane engines.
 
Find a small funnel that will slip down over the gear shift with knob removed and apply small amount of rtv around small end of funnel and it will seal out the water around the gear shift.
 
80-90 gear oil is tough to pump, and is going to be difficult to regulate in a wrapped tube on a 1200 degree manifold. I would rather see a coolant line used to heat the differential, but again it is tough to figure out a way to present the heat to the thick oil. in a Hytran filled differential/trans, the oil is much thinner, and would be far easier to run through a oil to water heat exchanger. Some tractors using Hytran fluid as trans lube do not pump the trans fluid through the hydraulics, Those that do tend to have far less problems with water in the fluid, but issues with gear wear particles in the hydraulic oil. Heating it up once or twice a winter seems easiest. JimN
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
1953 Super H water in oil
2
Replies
25
Views
1K
used red MN
U
P
water in fuel
Replies
0
Views
168
Pilot199
P
M
MM GB water pump issues
Replies
1
Views
238
MMDEL
M
M
960 front pedestal
Replies
5
Views
258
showcrop
showcrop
4
Am I the only one that ''Boils a Carb"?
Replies
14
Views
1K
40Mule
4
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top