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1086 chisel plowing

S

stan jefferies

Member
I chisel plow currently with a John Deere 100, been wanting to move to a 9 shank disc-chisel. In my part of Ohio I really need about 15hp per shank sometimes more, sometimes way more, and sometimes less. Anybody out there have any issues pulling a 9 shank with a 1086? Im worried I'll be underpowered.
 
Pulled a 9 shank Wilbeck disc chisel with 4" twisted shanks for years with a 1086.

You will be OK.

Gary
 
Depends on what soil type and slope. I tried pulling a 9 shank glencoe with my 1486 at 220hp and it would do, not enough traction and I had fluid in all of the tires. Moved up to a JD 4850 mfwd and that was a good combination. Now I have a JD 8400 with 290hp and I pull it 8.5 mph but slow down a bit on slopes and such. Around sw wisconsin a 1086 wont do it at all, that is if you want to get anything done.
 
I have pulled a 9 shank twisted with my 1466 turning 160hp and it just walked away with it so a 1086 should handle it in about low 3rd gear. I pulled it in low 4 with my 1466.
 
All depends upon soil type, how deep, & how fast you want to run. First 9 shank disc chiesel I owned was a CIH 6500 w/ 4" twisted sweeps. At 8-9" it was all my 1486 wanted in our heavier black soils (Sable & Ipava loams). Traded the 14 for a new 7120 in '87 & was able to drop to about 10" deep, ran 7th or 8th gear depending on soil & year. Bought a 7220 & at 10" was able to run mostly 9th gear. Bought a new '96 7240 mfd & was able to put the chiesel all the way in the ground & tractor would play with it.

Biggest problem I had with my 1486 was not enough weight, even with fluid in the rear tires, 3 sets of rear weights & duals.

I had a 1086 at the time & never even thught about putting the disc chiesel behind it.
 
If the 9 shank is a good deal, and it proves to be too much for the tractor, you could always drop the outer shanks and run it as a 7 shank, right?

Tractors in the 1086-1486 size really need MFWD to be effective tillage tractors. You can't weight them down enough.
 
I think the 8400 John Deere is what is 220 hp. That is what they are factory rated. I know they turn up the 1466 & 86's but not sure how high they will go and hold up. My 1466 is running 160 and my 1486 probley factory 145.
 
You won"t have the power with a 1086. I live just north of the Ohio line into Michigan, and on the clay of this area it"s all my friend"s MX235 will do to pull a 9 shank with 4" twisted chisels. We can go in 8th? About 4 1/2 miles per hour, The last gear before the range jump. 1086 might pull 7 in our neighborhood.
 
the biggest problems here are along creek banks and bottoms, the ground is usually a gumbo type and can at times stop a tractor. We have a mix of clay, and loam, and silty type soil like most everyone else I assume. I only chisel soybean stubble for corn and only in the spring and I havent had any problems with trash plugging, Im just feeling out the 9 shank idea, if it wont work, well the one thats been working is long ago paid for.
 
I turned the screw in on the pump. No my 8400 Deere dynos at 290 hp. No it isnt turned up or chipped. I dynoed it the first day I got it. I did turn the 1486 back down after I got my first mfwd. It cranks out about 180 hp which is just what I need for a blower tractor.
 
We pulled a 9 shank deere with both 1066s and the 15. I think we ran 3 inch points. The 786 was known to plow the headlands when the moldboards wouldn't stay in the ground. We farmed everything from former gravel pits to bottom ground.

The FWA 10 was stock, the other was well built, the motor acted like there was no load on it with the dyno reading 170HP. That's as far as the operator would go with it.
 
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