PAGING Jdemaris, another 560 injection pump question for ...

I have finally got my 560 into the shop and the pump tore off to rebuild it and have run into a problem. I cannot get the steel distributor end to come out of the aluminum housing. I have taken out the two small bolts that go into the housing and the larger 12 pointed head bolt that goes up thru the bottom but cannot get it to withdraw the housing. It will turn very slightly but not come out.

Before I go forcing things or removing something I should leave alone I thought it better to ask and see what else may need to come out to get it to seperate. Besides taking the cap with three screws off the top and removing the supply pump endcap these are the only other bolts I have taken out.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Casered,

More parts to remove before you are ready
to slide the head & rotor from the housing.You
must remove the advance plungers and the advance
ball ( it is screwed into the cam ring),most
likely you will need the spline drive tool to
remove the ball. There is a 7/16 head screw that
is the guide for the governor springs that has to
come out ( springs too ) Under the guide screw
is the metering valve that is hooked to the
governor linkage ( remove metering and the small
conical spring under it). Now you should be ready
to remove head& rotor ,clamp head lightly in vise
and slide housing up off of head ( DO NOT let
housing slide down on head or the body O ring
will pop out thru a hole in the housing ).

Send me an email and I can send you some
pictures of a 560 pump being taken apart.

Allen in ne has my spare tools ,he isn't
using them right now .I can get him to send
them to you and then you return them to him
as he has another pump to do .

george

George pretty much covered it but you should have SOME type of manual.

Torquing the head retaining bolts and the advance ballstud (if used) is (IMHO) IMPORTANT.

Here's of one of the manuals I use, obviously the engine section does not apply to you, but the Roosa DB pump section DOES. You can find the Blue Ribbon manuals on ebay from time to time or try BinderBooks.

<img src = "http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/27Grainfield/IHroosa1.jpg">

<IMG src = "http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/27Grainfield/IHroosa3.jpg">

<img src = "http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/27Grainfield/IHroosa2.jpg">

The other posts have pretty well covered it. Best tech manual I've seen is the one Deere sells - SM-2045. Availble cheap on CD at some other tractor sites. Also, many tractor companies have detailed info in their own tractor manuals - e.g. Allis Chalmer for an HD4, Ford 4000, etc. IH and Deere tend not to put the info in specific tractor manuals and use separate tech books instead.

About your head-stud. Deere and a few other companies special order the head-stud with a Bristol end. So, if that's what you have, you must have a Bristol six toothed wrench to get it out. I know that most Fords do NOT need it. Add Deere's do. Not sure about IH. So far, I've found them both ways.

If you need it and don't have a wrench, you might be able to buy cheap from Thompsons Diesel.

Wrench for taking out head-screw is Stanadyne # 15499, with six teeth, roughly 5/16" on the OD of the splines, and 1/4" on the ID.

Thompson's has been having a "yard sale" of new, old stock Stanadyne tools. Selling all at 1/2 price to anybody. My son and I bought a dozen of those wrenches to have as spares for $6 each.
Not sure if they have any more or not.

http://www.thompsondiesel.com/Stanadyne.htm

Thanks for all the replies guys. I'll maybe give it another shot over the weekend I think. My kid is sick at the moment and the wife and I arent getting much sleep. Thanks again.