IH 480 disk doesn't leave the ground level

I have a 20ft. 480 disk and cannot make it disk level. I have tried tilting front to back ect. the front blades are down to 20 or 21" it leaves a hump in the middle and does not leave things level for cutting soybeans. I can remember guys saying a 480 liked to ridge.I would like to get a 490 or preferably a 496 disk but may have to use the 480 again because of scarcity and price. The disks I have found were worn out and they still wanted $3000 or more for a 490. Used to finish cornstalks with the digger but the stalks are too heavy now a days.

IH made an attachment for the disc, a center shovel,that may help.

might have to fab a chisel shank in between gangs to run the center "hump" or wrinkle down. Seen many many done that way. Just go overboard on material and heaviness to stand up to whatever you pull it through.

The 480rear gangs can be spread out {make moreroom in middle} And reduce angle on rear gangs This will make a big change in performance.

I have seen the center shank, I have some vibra shanks for that and can build the bracket, thought about new front blades but $39.00 ea. discouraged that, could look at widening rear gangs, thought about putting a smaller blade on the outside of the front and the inside of the back gangs. I don't see why if things are set right that it shouldn't level., thanks for the ideas so far.

I don't know how fast you are going, but a lot of the older disk were designed for a slower speed than the newer versions. Also I have noticed all the guys that disk in the same direction have a lot of ridges in there fields, sometimes as much as 6-8" between ridges and lower spots. I always disk at an angle and that helps eliminate part of the problem. If the blades are worn uneven even as little as an inch will cause ridging. Could be a combination of a lot of things.

I bought a new 480 disc back in the early '70s, think it was an 18 1/2'. Came with 20"blades on 7 1/2" spacings. As others have siad the gang angle can be changed but that will affect cut more than levelness. Moving the rear gangs in or out will affect how much they throw into the middle. If you're getting a ridge in the middle it's either because of the gangs too narrow or the disc isn't level front to back. Front gangs should be set so the inner disc blades almost touch.

How does the disc run front to back? You might want someone to drive byside it while you make a pass thru the field to check. You should be able to get it to level using the crank at the front of the hitch unless your drawbar is too high or low. Also, you might want to check & see if one of the springs on the crank is broke or stretched or if any of the hitch linkage is bent or broke.

I agree that the 480s would ridge due to the fact that the wings were locked down & not allowed to float. That was my biggest complaint on my 480. Never had trouble getting it to level fron to rear. A better description as to "it will not level" would help.

Another thing that affects levelness is the ground speed you are running. To do a good job of leveling you need to run under 5mph and preferably under 4.5 mph.. Most guys don't want to go that slow

I have also owned 490s & currently own a 496. Depending what you want to do with a disc as to which one I would recomend. For leveling & finish work I go with the 490. If you're wanting to cut stalks then I would recomend the 496.

FWIW, if you think you have problems with your 480 leveling, wait till you run a 496, Has to be the worst IH disc I have ever owned in that regard. Have had 3 different IH dealers try to set it correctly & none have been able to so far. Have owned the disc since the mid '90s & absolutely hate the thing. If we used a disc very often I would trade it off but it seldom gets used anymore.

First pass with the disk second with a soil finisher or live with what you have.

doug,You haven't given enough info IMO.
How many trips across the field are you making in your spring plowing before planting? If your are just making one pass, it will be tuff to do!
If your disk is set on the most amount of angle possible. Shallow up your rear gangs a notch or 2 or 3 so as to not throw as much soil to the middle and cause that ridge!
Other than that, on your 2nd or last trip across the field pull a set of spike tooth harrows, heavy ship anchor chain, light R.R, rail or heavy drag pipe to smooth out your seed bed before planting. Hope this helps.
Later,
John A.

chop stalks, disk first time then disk final pass and pull a 5 section spike tooth drag behind it, doesn't matter what you disk it leaves ridges, original owner said it was a 1974 and it came with 22" blades and 9" spacings, once had a 20' 252 Oliver, didn't cut near as good but left the ground level, don't see why the 480 won't if set right.

I suppose it was made for a 1456, I am pulling with a 1570 Case in 3-2 which is at least 6.5mph, I need more disk and hoping to find one don't mind paying good money for a nice one just don't want to spend alot for a worn out one as for level I mean cross wise,with no ridge in the center or ends

dboll, I know there still must be some variable that is being missed.
So far I haven't hear you say anything about how you have it set. It still sounds to me like you need to flatten out the Angle of the rear gangs. That combined with shallowing out the rear of the plow should take care of it. Those are the only two calibrations a tandem disk has to stop the plow from ridging.
Do you carry any weight on the spike tooth harrow?
Try a R.R. Tie on each section! I realize that soil type and moisture and amount of trash still present will have a direct response to how well this will work. Yes, the dryer the soil is the better it will work.
These are High Plains Sandy Loam and Central Texas Black Clay tricks. When I was still in the Panhandle of Texas and Okla. Our last pass after we finished disking, we would pull a 30 ft section of R.R. rail to take out ridges and flatten out the field before we Listed (Bedded) it up to plant. Works the same when planting flat too!
Hope this helps.
Later,
John A.

One word. Overlap

Gordo

5 1/2 MPH is the fastest you should be going with this unit. Want to see a ridged field? Find where a JD level-action disc has been working---then you'll see ridges.