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Shawn in PA

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On average, how long do your guy"s points last in H"s or M"s? I"m going through them about every 7 months on my SM? Burns a hole clean threw them. Thanks. Shawn
 
Unless you are puttin a lot of hours on it that's not right. Is it 12v? if so were the proper measures taken to correct voltage to coil? Is the shaft worn causing them to bounce? I have an xtra spring from an old set hooked into mine for that reason. Are you leaving the switch on for more than a few seconds not running? That will start and get a progressively worse pit every time. Are you using the lube for the on the proper side of the rub block? Are you fileing them before install? Was a wives tail many yrs back that they had a coating on them that was to be filed off prior to install. How is the rest of the system? Good enough cap, etc? The bouncing thing really eats them. HTH Fred
 
My H used to go through a couple of sets a year. I finally got tired of changing them and converted to electronic. Been several years with no problems yet.
 
The whole system is rebuilt, works and runs great...12V conversion, all new wires, 12V internally ballasted coil. The distributor shaft is tight, new bushings. I know that leaving the switch on can burn them, and I avoid that. I did not file them when I put them in. I'll remember that this time. The only reason I noticed was i switched out the springs on the distributor weights to lighter ones. Thats when I noticed the points were cooked. It runs alot, but not any more than normal for a tractor. Its not a big deal cause they are cheap and quick, but I thought they'd last for yrs, not months. I did not lube or polish the breaker cam either...hmmm.
 
(quoted from post at 21:46:35 12/31/09) On average, how long do your guy"s points last in H"s or M"s? I"m going through them about every 7 months on my SM? Burns a hole clean threw them. Thanks. Shawn
Click to expand...

"a hole clean threw them. "

You do realize that some are made with a hole in the center like a donut don't you?
 
Well don't know why your having problems like that as we put a bunch of hours on the 706 each year and i do tune it once a year just to keep it at it's best. On my S/MTA about once every blue moon or when i think about it and it starts just fine . Now you said that it has been changed to 12 volts and that you have a 12 volt coil on it , well as for myself i NEVER use a 12 volt coil i just add a resistor to the STOCK coil and it works fine . Even the stock 12 volt farmall's use a 6 volt coil with a resistor and for a hotter start shot they use a wire off the starter to shoot a straight 12 to the coil on start up that bypasses the resistor from the starter. . Now you may have the coil wired backwards and this will give ya fits so make sure that the coil matches the grounding of the battery .
 
When we farmed we put in points every spring, in cars I did it twice a year. I would add a ballast resistor, there have been reports of coils being made without the resistor but being sold as having one, welcome to, "made as cheap as possible parts".
 
I have a Super C. Owned it 28 years or more. It always starts good but converted to 12 volt cause the 6 volt batteries I've used (cheap) never lasted more than a year or two in the MN cold winters. This is my snow plowing tractor.
Once it was converted to 12 volt, it always has started on the first or second turn of the engine. NEVER have needed to check or change the points yet! Was converted in 1982.
 
I had a similar life on my H, but it never burn a hole in them. Usually the tractor would just take longer to start and wouldn't want to take any throttle.

Neighbor suggested adding a second condensor, connected to the stud where the points wire comes out of the distributor. The 2nd condensor is mounted under the coil clamp.

It works great. Keeps them going all year.

Greg
 

Over time one of the points will pit and the metal be deposited on the other. You can remove that ridge of metal by running over the points with a very small thin file designed for this purpose a "points file" clean the points with a dollar bill and you can then run a while longer. This can be done several times before you actually have to replace the points.
 
(quoted from post at 10:55:25 01/01/10)

Neighbor suggested adding a second condensor,

Greg
Click to expand...

If this "fixed" the problem, then the coil/ capacitor combination was wrong in the first place, or else your cap is under value
 
(quoted from post at 18:46:35 12/31/09) On average, how long do your guy"s points last in H"s or M"s? I"m going through them about every 7 months on my SM? Burns a hole clean threw them. Thanks. Shawn
Click to expand...

The answer is simple, the fix might not be. If you go through that many, there's something serious wrong.

Bad coil, or mismatched coil/ resistor, or just plain incorrect coil

Bad, or wrong value condenser. Just because a condenser is or was new does not make it 'good'

Really poor quality points, or you are not gapping them correctly, and or the distributor is worn badly------

If the gap is not wide enough they will tend to burn, but sometimes this problem is complicated by worn bushings or a bent shaft. That is, if they don't "snap" open fast enough, they tend to burn and arc

Hell, when I was a kid my Gramps had a Case VA/ VAC, and I don't think he changed points in over 5 years. My other Grampa had a little Cub and I doubt they were changed that often.
 
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